Seat replacement in Series 1 Coupe

[Rod]

Hi Guys,
I need some help please. Due to a leg injury I need to gain a little more leg room on the drivers side. Is it possible to replace or alter the standard seats to be a little further back.
Cheers Rod.

[peteracs]

Hi Rod

Not a simple fix I think

The runners are in two parts with rubber/metal rollers between. The stops are part of the bolting mechanism into the floor. So you would need to extend the bar fastened to the seat if it is possible to move it back further. Try removing a seat and take a look maybe?

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Rod

I agree with what Peter suggested. Add new steel strip drilled to change the position of the runner fittings to the seat and keep the runner fitting to the bodyshell stock. So some strip steel and some new / additional bolts job done.

Eric

[frankxhv773t]

Here's some pictures of some spare seat runners (without the internal rollers) so you can see what you are dealing with. It should be dead easy to weld a bit of flat bar on the bottom with new mounting holes to fit it further back. Two things occur to me would need checking which are that the new mounting bolts don't foul the rollers and that the flat bar doesn't obstruct the latch of the adjuster mechanism.

[peteracs]

Hi Frank

I did not see how you could extend the bottom part of the runner at first, as the fixing holes in the car are set and cannot easily be moved. However I guess if you used some sort of flush headed bolt for the rear one, you could devise an extended bar with a new stop, however I would hesitate doing that given it is a safety issue. I think extending the upper runner fastened to the seat would be a more achievable option.

Peter

[frankxhv773t]

You could indeed approach it from the other direction and mount the seat base further back on the runners however I suspected the adjuster lever would then stick out rather a long way in front of the seat. Also, if I'm right about which way up the runner fits, you have three mounting points to contend with moving rather than just two. My son having worked in a professional hot rod shop I'm perhaps a bit less nervous about modifications than other people.

What I envisioned was a the bottom runner welded to a piece of flat bar that ran the full length of the existing runner and protruded out the front far enough to give the required extra reach. As long as the flat bar is thicker than the existing metal of the lower runner it ought to be at least as safe.

The mounting bolt holes would have to be moved forward as well. The front one would be clear of the runner, Being through the flat bar where it extends forward to provide the extra reach. The rear mounting bolt would limit the rearward travel of the seat, which would be entirely counter productive, but with the extra thickness of the flat bar a countersunk screw as used on the door hinges would probably do the trick. The now redundant original rear mounting hole on the lower runner would have a nut and bolt fitted to provide the back stop.

[peteracs]

Hi Frank

Now I understand and yes that would work without modding the original runners. Good idea.

Peter

[Rod]

Hi Guys, thanks for the great ideas. It looks like  it is doable but a job. The other idea I had is it possible to change the accelerator pedal to be slightly close to the firewall?
As this would give me the leg room needed.
Cheers in advance.

[frankxhv773t]

I suspect moving the accelerator pedal would be a vastly more complicated option. Isn't it pretty much buried in the carpet on full throttle already?

[squiglyzigly]

On the underside of the pedal there is the pedestal that stops against the plastic bung that’s screwed to the floor. You can get some extra travel by cutting it back. In turn it means you can lower the resting height of the pedal to give a bit more length to your right leg.

Ian

[frankxhv773t]

Well I have to admit 30 seconds with an angle grinder does sound even easier than modifying seat runners.

[Nigel]

I think I'd take two 20 x 8 flat bars, mounted fore and aft. They'd be
longer by the distance you wish to achieve. Drill 2 holes in each, and bolt
them to the existing chassis points, with the extra length sticking out at the rear.

Then drill and tap 2 more holes in each bar, at the rearward desired position ,replicating the chassis.
No welding, and using all the original screws and stops together with 4 new bolts for the chassis mounts.

Your seat will be 8mm higher, but that shouldn't be an issue.

Nigel

[frankxhv773t]

The "cat skinning" competition is really heating up now!

[Nigel]

For Frank:

Sometimes I wish there was a 'like' button!.