SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[Ferrit]

Afternoon,

After a year of looking for a nice VX Coupe I have actually just agreed the purchase of a 2000 Coupe from a collector in SA.

I am now have a million questions...

Insurance, who, how etc?

Fuel - additives yes or now, fuel type, fuel lines etc - what do I need to do?

Oil types?  I have been told its been fully serviced, brakes checked through, new tyres, new belts and new battery.  Its only got 23,000 km's so its not going to need much and have been told everything has been checked through.  We will see ;-)

If anyone has experience of SA imports re DVLA let me know please, any help will be appreciated.

Its going to need some tlc underneath to protect from the UK climate.  It will be in a lightly heated garage ASAP/I can clear all the bikes out.

I cant wait for it to arrive in c5 weeks and start this journey together.

[SanRemo78]

Looks like a stunning example! I can't offer any advice on import mechanics but you may need help from the Lancia Motor Club with proof of age for registration? I think Tony Harrison can help with that?

Irrespective of service history I think another belt change would be wise so you KNOW it's been done. Check the rubber fuel lines and change them for ethanol proof ones too as soon as possible, new fuel filter as well. Brake fluid change but you may need to soak and soak and soak the bleed nipples before you try to crack them open. Antifreeze change too.

Guy

[Ferrit]

All good advice.  I will look up Tony Harrison now

[Ferrit]

Any advice around unleaded modern fuels and additives, do you?

[SanRemo78]

Not yet.... My car is pretty much a rolling shell and won't be back on the road for another year most likely! I may come back to you for current advice!

[WestonE]

These engines are fine on unleaded fuel. However E10 fuels will attack your fuel hoses so expect to replace all fuel hoses. See the thread on here on Fuel Hose replacement for Ethanol resistant hose. These engines run better on 97 -99 octane E5 but it is not essential.   

[peteracs]

Hi

Nice looking car.

On fuel lines as Eric has said the rubber hoses need to be replaced, E9 rated at least to give you a good chance of them lasting, but go with reputable manufacturer such as Cohline. There are normally rubber hoses both in the engine bay and from the tank, for the cost not worth risking it, just replace them.

Suggest E5 fuel where you can.

Neil Priestman on here

http://lanciabeta.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=299

handles the LMC dating so worth contacting, not sure if he can help with DVLA registration.

As to oil, I run 10/50 synthetic which gives you a good balance of cold start and hot running. I did find modern 10/40 when very hot flickered the red light on idle, 10/50 solved that. Kinder to the engine on cold start than old school 20/50.

Insurance take your pick, I use Lancaster, but plenty of Classic car ones, suggest get agreed value and buy back in case of writeoff if you want to keep it.

Peter

[Ferrit]

So the Beta is at the car export depo at the port, ready to be packed.

Starting to think of a list of 'To Do's':

DVLA - reached out to Neil
Sorting the garage and short term storage for once its here
Pull the interior out to check out the floor and rear turrets - where should I be looking?  Thinking of getting a Krown protection done straight away
Ordering some fuel additive and oil analysis kit, and maybe some oil/filter as recommended
All fluids and belts have been done as was the tyres, but will go and check brakes and belts.  How about coolant?
Fuel system - I might look at dropping the tank, inspecting, cleaning repainting, sort all the rubber pipes out and filter
Owner suggested a tune due to the fuel, temp and height above sea level where its been living?  I found a classic car rolling-road place, any recommendations for Surrey?
Check all the pipes etc, I can see one on a video he sent that is a little perished

Anything else?

I want to get it going ASAP and then during the winter build a list to work through

Mark

[SanRemo78]

Rear turrets are a known weak spot but inspection is hampered by the bitumen covering... Ask me how I know! There are multiple layers of steel involved and if corrosion sets in it's a big job to resolve.

In the wheel arch have a very careful look at the panel work behind the suspension struts, there are three layers there and they are exposed. If you can get a borescope then fit the carpets in the boot and have a look into the box sections on either side. There is some gusseting in there by the turrets but you should be able to see if it's okay or not. Paint in there is going to be lacking but hopefully it got some wax injected. Whilst the carpets are out have a close look at the joint between the turret and the floor for any obvious signs. If it's okay then the rest may be okay.  If you want to remove the bitumen it's a scape job probably. You can use dry ice if you can find a way to keep it against the pads, it'll cause contraction and you'll hear a crack as it goes at which point a tap to two with a soft mallet and the pads come off cleanly but will never go back on! With it out of the way you may find a few spots where rot has set in between layers bursting through.

Hopefully it's all good and ready for some serious rustproofing treatment!

Dropping the tank is an excellent idea. But try to drain it as much as you can and consider how you'll dispose of the waste. Replacing the rubber piping is a no brainer whilst it's out, just make sure you've got the correct replacement hoses that will cope with current fuels. I'd recommend doing that before looking at anything else. New filters obviously! If the fuel gauge works that's great but if you need a sender for a car with an electric fuel pump I've got a NOS one in a box!

Guy

[Ferrit]

Thank you so much for answering. 

[Nigel]

Hi,
If the car has spent its life as per the registration area (GP is Gauteng Province) the climate
is warm and dry. Rust is seldom seen but as Guy says, it's worth checking all the normal problem
areas. Go mad with the Dynatrol!

It was probably sold by TAK in Johannesburg, a Lancia dealer I worked at in 84/85. As far as
I recall, these were UK spec cars with no extra emission equipment, unlike the Aus spec versions.

If this is the same car, the interior trim does not appear to be factory, hardly surprising given the age.
Upholstery work is fairly low cost in SA.

Looks like a great car, best wishes with it. I look forward to seeing it sometime.

Nigel

[Ferrit]

Yep built at TAK

Its nice to hear your thoughts on the possible condition.  So I asked about the interior and assumed as you said, but I was informed it is SA standard factory from new.  If I dont like it maybe I will look for a VX interior?

As soon as its drivable I was thinking of using Krown - see below.  I do this myself with all my vehicles but thinking first time it might be a plan for shop this job out.

https://youtu.be/-_G5vJGaGDU?si=3mXClC5FPYNFe8oR

https://www.krown.co.uk/

[Nigel]

Pre-facelift Coupes were built from Completely-Knocked-Down kits by TAK, to fulfil local
content legislation designed to protect the SA car industry at the time. Imported cars, at the time,
were subject to high additional taxes. Hence the paint colour and trim differences on the early cars.

Spiders and HPE's, of which there were few in those early days, arrived built up.

CKD's became unnecessary when the economy stabilised and import taxes were either greatly
reduced or, gradually, abolished. Your car, being an 82 or later, fell well outside this, and all facelift cars were
imported fully built up.

Hope that better explains!

Nigel

[Ferrit]

all helps to backfill the story.  Neil from LMC said it was built in April 1982, reg doc says 'date of liability' as 01-01-1982

[Ferrit]

Thank you for all the replies so far.  Car should be on a boat this time next week.  Getting closer.

Scouring some of the pictures I could see the washer bottle seemed to be missing and the seller confirmed after a check.  I guess he never used it 

I am thinking the repoduction one and a motor from Betaboyz?  The expansion tank has been replaced by something else but the guy says its all good.  I might wait and see before buying a replacement.  Fuse box cover might be damaged also.

All in one picture

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

Those scuttle mounted bottles are hard to find, from memory I think Nigel had a solution?

I should have a spare fuse box/lid you can have.

Peter

[Nigel]

Indeed, my car now has a Clio tank which fits the space quite well. Searching Ebay will bring it up. Some bracketry is required.  This you'll find pictured on my HPE rolling resto pages.

Nigel

[Ferrit]

Thank you Nigel.

Chomping at the bit waiting  for the car to turn up.  I guess i will just get on with the yearly underside protection on my old Caravelle and polish my exhaust tips in the meantime 😬

[HFStuart]

At least you aren't polishing the inside (yet)

[Ferrit]

So the car is loaded in a container and should be on its way on the 10th, here by the end of the month.  This forums old posts have been excellent help so far.

I am currently building a list of items to get like oil and filters etc.  I am going to get an oil analysis done by Millers Oils while I am at it.  Bought an almost new endoscope to go looking for rust ( ).

List of items I could do with some help with:

Which oil filter is it?  I am not sure on the engine type - see attachment

Do people use fuel additives?

Any recommendations on modernising the fuel system, obv new ethanol capable pipes (Cohline someone recommended), how about a Filter King and a electronic fuel pump, any thoughts?

Gearbox oil, any recommendations?

I will try and buy as much from Betaboyz of course

Thanks to SanRemo78 for the leather steering wheel, just bought a restore kit for that.  After a de-grease it looks pretty good shape.

The rest can wait until it gets here..

Mark