Front Flange bolt holes

[JohnFol]

Afternoon all, I recently had all 4 wheels off and took the opportunity of re-tapping the bolt / hole threads. 15 out of 16 were good but one on the front felt as if I was at risk of cross-threading the hole. My easiest option is to get it professionally re-threaded whilst on the car, but I struggle to find mechanics willing to take on anything.

I can remove the hub reasonably easy (1000Nm torque wrench will help) but concerned about refitting. Am I going to need a torque wrench that goes up to ~300Nm to tighten hub nut on re-assembly?

[peteracs]

Hi John

It is the removing the nut that is usually the issue. I have good results taking them off with a decent torque rattle gun. Removing with a very long bar was a right pain and not something I wish to repeat. Personally if you can torque up the wheel bolt, I would leave well alone especially as you have 3 other good ones.

If you do remove it suggest getting a replacement may be simpler solution than messing around.

Peter

[SanRemo78]

If you're removing the hub from the carrier then budget for a replacement wheel bearing too. It may be more feasible to replace the hub carrier and hub with a used one as a temporary (or alternative) measure? I think I have a pair of these in the shed if you want to contemplate that route. Free of charge but shipping would be expensive due to weight I think. Collection from Formby on Merseyside is welcome! Kettle always on for fellow Betaboyz!

Guy

[JohnFol]

Hi Peter not too worried about removal, it's the refit as I had a bad experience with an Allegro where the wheel bearing bolt would never tighten enough "with hilarious consequences". Do I really need a ~300Nm torque wrench?

Guy, thanks for the offer. Before I bite your arm off, do I need any special tools to replace the bearing? I'm hearing there is a special socket to remove the lock nut (cylindrical with 3 studs at end) and then I guess a bench press is a must.

[HFStuart]

You do not need a 300NM torque wrench. The nut needs to be very tight but with a cartridge type bearing it's not critical. 100lb/ft from a standard torque wrench and then a bit more is good enough. A nomal 1/2 knuckle bar is more than enough.

[SanRemo78]

It's not a cartridge type bearing on the Beta HF Stuart. Just a standard twin race bearing.

Removing the bearing from the hub requires a special tool with 6 lugs to engage in the castellations on the inside. You'll need to put the hub carrier in a bench mounted vice and use some penetrating fluid once you've released the punched out locking tabs. It may be easier to drill a pilot hole through it and then gradually enlarge it until you reach the lockring threads. Once you've got there a cold chisel and a lump hammer should see it come out easily. Once the lockring is out the hub can be pushed out with a press (or a suitable socket and a lump hammer if you're feeling aggressive) and it'll bring the outer ball race with it swiftly followed by all the outer ball bearings. If you flip the hub carrier over you can use large socket resting on the inner race and the lump hammer again.

Reassembly is not the reverse though. The new bearing must be reseated carefully using a press and the new lockring put into place with the right tool and staked once in place. You will want to check it fits smoothly before fitting the bearing in case you need to use a thread file to clear any damage up. The old inner race will need to be cut/ground off the hub before you can refit that. Don't be tempted to just push it all the way home with a press though, that might push the inner race out on the CV joint side. Push it in half way on the press and then use a flat plate/ very thick washer and a bolt to draw the hub fully home. A CV joint might be long enough for this.

If you buy a bearing kit make sure it's coming with the lockring and the nut for the CV joint. Neither should be re-used. The same bearing is used front and back on the Beta but they use slightly different size lockrings which is a shame! There must be a reason...

Cheers
Guy

[peteracs]

Hi

Mark has a tool for the lock rings, the same tool fits both front and back ones even though they are externally different sizes.

Peter

[HFStuart]

It's not a cartridge type bearing on the Beta HF Stuart. Just a standard twin race bearing.

Guy

Your quite right of course  - I was just thinking about the driveshaft nut. God knows why as I've taken enough beta hubs apart to know better.