Gear Linkage Failure

[Ammy]

How sensitive is the adjusting screw  ?   I think I may be "overdoing it" when adjusting.

[Neil-yaj396]

It is sensitive, less than one turn transformed 1st & 2nd on my car from unselectable to easy.....

[Ammy]

Thank you for that info.

[Ammy]

Linkage sorted,  no idea the adjustment screw was so sensitive,  ended up using 1/4 turns to get it right.  Many thanks for all the advice.

[mangocrazy]

That's worth knowing (sensitivity of adjuster). Tiny steps seem to be the order of the day.

[Neil-yaj396]

Lightning strikes twice!

After servicing the 1300 Coupe yesterday it was used for a nice drive up the Holme Valley to a lovely Italian restaurant near Holmfirth. Last set of traffic lights before home, change down from 3rd and bingo, the gear stick comes loose in my hand. Luckily even the 1300 could limp home in 3rd. At least I know how to fix it now. Perhaps the mid 60K miles and/or 38 to 40 years is as much as the linkage is good for??

[mangocrazy]

Perhaps the mid 60K miles and/or 38 to 40 years is as much as the linkage is good for??

That's very interesting - my 2000  Spider has done fractionally under 60k miles and is 39 years old. You may have spotted a pattern...

[smithymc]

Indeed. Mine is 42 now- I have had the kit on the shelf for a while, looks like I’ll be fitting it pretty pronto!

Mark

[Neil-yaj396]

Indeed. Mine is 42 now- I have had the kit on the shelf for a while, looks like I’ll be fitting it pretty pronto!

Mark

It seems to be the bushes that collapse, rather than the cross link that breaks. Though while you are working on it, it is definitely worth fitting the upgraded link, as that transforms the change.

[Neil-yaj396]

One of the joints on the 1300's cross link was very worn, so glad I ordered that as well. So both my cars now have the upgraded link. It makes the gear change feel surprisingly different, far more positive, but somehow notchy. I'm sure I'll soon warm to it, just odd after 14 years of Beta driving....

[mangocrazy]

One of the joints on the 1300's cross link was very worn, so glad I ordered that as well. So both my cars now have the upgraded link. It makes the gear change feel surprisingly different, far more positive, but somehow notchy. I'm sure I'll soon warm to it, just odd after 14 years of Beta driving....

I suspect you're adjusting to the lack of vagueness that there is in the standard setup. The 'slop' in the standard bushes and crosslink has been removed and that's probably what makes it feel notchy.

[JohnFol]

I know this is an old thread but there is some relevant information.
I have had all my linkages replaced, gearbox oil replaced, bush and seals on front linkage replace and think adjustment is needed as I too have problems getting into 5th gear.

I was assuming it'll be the length of the "Gear linkage Ideal Rod" as it's adjustable, but this post suggests it's the one at the front.
I currently have battery, radiator, starter, carbs out of engine bay for refurb so an ideal time to adjust the linkage as full access.

Is it as simple as trying to select a gear, and then adjust front linkage 1/4 turn, and repeat? Or should I be double checking the Ideal Rod first?

[Nigel]

Hi John,
5th gear [and reverse] is when the input shaft is pushed down into the gearbox,
so yes, a 1/4 turn clockwise on the top nut [not forgetting to slacken off the bottom nut] would be
my suggestion. If that doesn't show improvement then try lengthening the ideal rod a 1/4 turn.

Is reverse a bit tricky as well? I think it's a balancing act between the two adjustments.
Regards
Nigel

[unclejam]

Useful info here for me, as my gearchange is pretty terrible and reverse is only found after fishing about with the lever for a minute or so!
1980 Spyder, probably with an original gearshift mech / bushes etc.  I have bought replacement bushes from Mark but before I tackle the job, had some questions I was hoping someone could answer?

Firstly, as I have a car lift - is it easier to access the mechanism from below, or from above via the engine bay?
Secondly, is upgrading the cross link essential, or can I just clean and refit the original one?
Thirdly, is there a step-by-step guide to doing this job anywhere on the forum?  (Just to save me spending a night searching!)

Thanks in advance folks.
Chris

[Nigel]

Hi Chris,
The OEM cross link had nylon end cups which can wear, but
not as much,it seems, as the 3 large bushes. I had the fortune to
have metal parts saved from a work job which fitted perfectly.
I recommend changing what you can whilst everything is out.

The front arm is easy to get at from the top,and easily removed.
The rear arm goes through into the car, not so accessible.
I didn't have to try fitting any in-situ, but it can be done.

Nigel

[Neil-yaj396]

Having a lift will make the job a lot easier as only the links to the gear box are accessible from above. If you have a look at either Haynes or a parts book it is all fairly easily explained as to how it comes apart/ goes together. With the car on a lift you will have much easier access to the parts in the center section, including the cross link.

The cross link on my 1300 was bent as well as worn, as the material used is almost half as thick as on the part sold by Mark, so definitely worth changing.

[JohnFol]

Hi Chris, the Haynes manual does cover adjustment, but there is also a diagram and instructions within this page
http://www.lanciabeta.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2185.0

[unclejam]

Thanks for the info Nigel, Neil & John.  OK, so it looks like a replacement cross arm is sensible too, seeing as I intend to keep the Spyder forever and ever, amen.
In my experience, there is normally no substitute for getting under a car and figuring it out for yourself! 

[unclejam]

So, just to clarify - the "Cross link" is referred to on Mark's shop as the "Gear Linkage Ideal Rod" and in the manual as the "Gear Control Front Linkage Stay Rod"
Am I looking at the correct bit of the mechanism, or am I hopelessly confused?   

[Nigel]

unclejam,

Number 9 is the so-called Ideal Rod. It is not a 'stay-rod'.  That is the vertical
rod numbered 4 in the Haynes pic.

I hope this clarifies, cheers.