My HPE....now a rolling recommission

[Nigel]

I've had the slow wiper issue and weak indicators ever since I first got the car.
I found 10.8v at both relevant fuses, the rest reading a healthy 12.4v.
Going straight to source, the input of the ignition switch read 12.4v,
however the output was 11.8v.

I then removed the fuse box and connectors. Squeezed and cleaned each blade and
plug terminal, then refitted with liberal sprays of contact cleaner. This brought
the relevant fuses up to 11.8v,and wipers and indicators are now much improved and
I hope a new complete ignition switch now on order will be a cure.

On that subject, I finally got around to mounting a relay on a fabricated bracket at
the starter motor.

And I've also refitted the hatch screen trim, which was previously flapping loose in one
corner. I'll leave the pressure bricks overnight.

And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.

[Sandro]

Excellent work Nigel!


Good to see that rear trim window on!
( what was the bonding agent you used ? you did tell me I've forgotten. )


Andrew.
 

[Nigel]

I had a good result with the hatch trim.
It's in a good position and all corners are
seated well.
Andrew, it's a sealant/adhesive called CT1.
I asked a local screen company for a tube of their gloop, but the product and gun they use is much different.

Cheers, n.

[chrisc]

And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.

now why didn't I think of that before splashing out on putting mine back to metal

[Nigel]

And finally, about 2 weeks ago, I sealed the aftermarket leaking electric sunroof surround
with black CT1, then had a local company wrap the roof. The offending roof is visible, but
I can now relax knowing that it won't ruin my interior again.

now why didn't I think of that before splashing out on putting mine back to metal

Chris, after spending probably 100 hours on the upholstery, checking all the drains
properly, and then finding the inside soaking wet I decided something effective but
semi-permanent was needed.
It is a bodge, but remains
reversible for the future custodian.

[Sandro]

I had a good result with the hatch trim.
It's in a good position and all corners are
seated well.
Andrew, it's a sealant/adhesive called CT1.
I asked a local screen company for a tube of their gloop, but the product and gun they use is much different.

Cheers, n.

Thanks Nigel, I probably could have used exactly the same method to bond mine, I found that my rear window trim ( and from I understand nearly all ) don't fit prefectly ( shapewise in relation to the recess form ) and some areas need a bit of extra black sealant applied.

Cheers Andrew. 

[Nigel]

I've fitted a new ignition switch but the problem remains.

I'm now going to check each circuit which is energised by the ignition switch.
These are wipers, indicators, rear screen,rear wiper, heater fan and I reckon, the ignition system
itself, i.e. coil and ecu. Any more? I suspect some of these are fed by the same fuse.
Luckily,I have late wiring diagrams to pore over.
Hopefully isolating one-by-one might identify the culprit.

Onwards I go...

[WestonE]

Hi Nigel

Include looking inside the fuse box by removing the back panel. You are looking for wires with bloated insulation from heat i.e. resistance. Also clean contacts and a strong click when you load your shiny new fuse. To tighten the contact a squeeze fuse removed will do. A Dremel with a small wire brush is great for getting clean contacts.

Enjoy?

Eric 

[Nigel]

I did exactly as you suggested Eric, and things are better already.
Cleaned terminals and new fuses where appropriate.
No signs of bloated cables within the fuse box, but there are some strange
goings-on. Fuses 1,6,9 and 14 have no outputs connected,although everything
functions. This is starting to look like a future rewiring project.

I disconnected the ign coil,then tried the wipers and indicators. Both much faster.
I found a high resistance at the coil: 2.4ohms, [looks to be the original
part number,so very old] so i've got a 1.5ohm coil on its way.

The encouragement is very helpful,thanks.

Nigel

[Nigel]

Eric,
This is the coil i'm waiting for.
It's described as a 'ballast coil'. Does this indicate that
I could or should bypass the OEM ballast,or can it remain in the circuit?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2553889.m570.l1313&_nkw=+170625630589&_sacat=0

Thanks, Nigel

[WestonE]

Hi Nigel

I do not know and would have to check with Accu Spark and suggest you do just that. The later cars moved to dry coils because they are supposed to be more reliable and more compact. You definitely want the manufacturers tech sheet. A ballast might be needed to protect the ignition switch. Of course if you have a relay on the switch it is less of a concern.

Eric

[Nigel]

Eric,
Accu Spark replied saying "the coil is to be used in conjunction
with the existing ballast resistor." All good I thought.

However, upon fitting, no start. I bypassed the resistor and it started.
I checked the resistance between the terminals [the primary winding] of the new
coil and it read 2.8ohms. I am uncertain whether the absence of the resistor could
damage any other part of the ignition system.
I'd have thought that a coil advertised as a 1.5ohm coil should produce a similar reading?

I'm sending it back.

Refitted the old one and all's back running.
This conundrum will wait until my return from France. She's running well enough for that.

[Nigel]

The trip to France brought a couple of unforeseen benefits.

Upon chatting to Kevin [betaveloce], I have now acquired 2 VX gearboxes and a
LHD pair of steering column cowls.

One box is in pieces but mostly complete bar some bolts and an output drive flange.
The other is still built up.
I'm concentrating on the in-bits box first, trying to find out why it
was stripped. The bearings have tiny wear marks, but all gears are good.
Selector forks have got barely visible use.
As noted by Eric previously, the Primary shaft [from engine] has a double ball bearing at its
outer end, and 5th gear on the Secondary shaft is splined.

I'm now on a mission to find 2 bearings, specifically the Double Ball Bearing on the Primary outer end.
The other is the engine end of the Secondary shaft, next to the Diff.
I already have the 2 other bearings as previously purchased.

Onwards I go....
Nigel

[WestonE]

Hi Nigel

Tanc Barratt is the source you need for the double roller (Integrale part)  and get the Integrale main cluster base bearing (the largest) with more rollers.

[Nigel]

Much appreciated Eric.

Regards
Nigel

[Nigel]

Eric,
Before I make a mistake, these appear to be the 2 bearings I need.

https://www.deltaintegrale.com/shop/delta-integrale-8v-transmission-and-drivetrain/46403499

https://www.deltaintegrale.com/shop/delta-integrale-8v-transmission-and-drivetrain/46403498

have I got this right?
Many thanks
Nigel

[WestonE]

Hi Nigel

Yes as far as I can tell. On the first one I am relying on the exploded part diagram. Best measure them on receipt and check.

Eric

[Nigel]

Thanks Eric.

It's good to have a second 'tick', although I was fairly certain i'd
found the correct ones.
I'm waiting on some other stuff: RS for the diff bearings and TMH for gaskets and seals.

Looking forward to getting this together.

I can't find any solid reason why it was in bits apart from some very light marks on
the bearing behind the clutch.

The work area will be a lot cleaner when I start building it up!

Cheers
Nigel

[SanRemo78]

Has anyone ever tried fitting an Alfa Romeo Q2 limited slip differential into a Beta box? The casings look so similar to the Alfa 164 to me. Somewhere in the garage I think I have a 164 differential that came out of a gearbox that's now got a Q2 fitted. If it surfaces in the impending house move and anyone wants it for comparison you're welcome to it if postage is covered. But it's very heavy!

Guy

[betaveloce]

Nice work Nigel. You did say you're not one to postpone things

I'm glad the gearboxes (or at least one of them) will be used instead of taking up space in my garage and/or basement. They have been lying around here for at least 15 years and they're heavy things to move when they are in the way

Thanks Eric.

It's good to have a second 'tick', although I was fairly certain i'd
found the correct ones.
I'm waiting on some other stuff: RS for the diff bearings and TMH for gaskets and seals.

Looking forward to getting this together.

I can't find any solid reason why it was in bits apart from some very light marks on
the bearing behind the clutch.

The work area will be a lot cleaner when I start building it up!

Cheers
Nigel