Early HPE restoration

[peteracs]

Well the body has had nothing done to it since arriving until yesterday due to various other things going on, such as upturn in the weather, so jobs in the garden take priority as well as others such as the forum issues and sorting out and attending the NEC show.

So yesterday managed to insert some Dynax S50 into the rear chassis rails, sills and bulkhead. I still have the front chassis rails to do, but a reasonable start. I also started sorting out the bomb site called thengarden shed which has numerous boxes of parts from both the HPE and the Coupe, a lot of which needs to be put to one side as not going to be used, but I do not want to get rid of anything just yet unless it is beyond use. This will take several days due to the amount of stuff I have accumulated over the last few years.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Not a lot to report, but did manage to complete the Dynax in the chassis rails and front bulkhead. Also continued with cleaning/wire wheeling/rust converting/etch priming and Hammerite painting various parts, as well as those in the photo I also had a go at the front and rear bumpers which have steel mounts and bolts for the rubber inserts. Removing the rubber inserts is not an option as the bolts are too far gone to remove. One thing I was particularly pleased with was the servo which had a fair amount of surface rust and has come up really well. This is the original off the HPE which was in better condition than the Coupe one oddly.

Peter

[Nigel]

Hi Peter,
If the rubber pieces on the bumpers are standing proud, it's
caused by rust expanding. This appears to occur mostly on the
later wrap-around type.
As you suggest, leave be if all look ok.
On mine, I was able to replace the rusty inserts with new studs and washers (welded together)
squeezed into existing apertures in the rubber, finished with some CT1.

N.

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

Thanks, good idea. Fortunately they are not standing out. One corner you can see the rubber distorted, but at this point not worth all the heartache of taking them off especially as the worst one is on the rear which is the complete bumper in length. I have plenty of other parts to clean etc before I start putting parts back on.

Peter

[peteracs]

One thing I have done is remove the two wire meshes in the radiator surround which is where on early cars the air intake to the carb is. The mesh is so fine that the amount of air it lets in must be minimal so removing it has no downside to my mind especially as I aim to baffle this air up to the top of the engine as I am using pancake filters on the downdraft throttle bodies.

Peter

[Ferrit]

I have just read this story from start to so far.  Amazing, interesting, useful.  Car will be amazing

[SanRemo78]

Removing the mesh may be beneficial Peter, it should help force airflow through the radiator matrix. It's a modification I plan on doing on my car when I get to that stage as it worked very effectively on the Stratos replica. The car ran a little cooler than before but ultimately it's the thermostat that will control it.

[peteracs]

Hi Guy

I think it will do the opposite as it opens up a route to bypass the radiator more so than if the mesh is in place and is acting as a restriction?

Peter

[peteracs]

I have just read this story from start to so far.  Amazing, interesting, useful.  Car will be amazing

Hi Mark

Yes been an interesting if expensive journey. Still a lot of hurdles to jump, but really part of the challlenge.

Hope your car arrives in good order!

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Well various distractions over previous months, so very little achieved, however managed to pluck up the enthusiasm to do a couple of little jobs.

First was to rebuild the steering column. Due to my hybrid setup, ie front being IE with power steering and wanting to use the pre facelift dash, I had assumed that I could simply use the original top part of the column and the power part of the power steering column, simples..... Well no not that simple. The upper part of the column on the IE is longer than the pre facelift manual column and the lower part is shorter. Not by much, maybe 2-3 cm, however this poses a problem in that you need to use the lower section from the IE as the power steering rack has different diameter splined fixing. So the plan was to remove the original key barrel from the old column and put it on the IE column. This went well and I was able to reuse the non reusable bolts which hold it on via cutting slots in them once removed using extracting tool.

I took the opportunity to strip the upper column so I could check and regrease the two bearings. All went back together as did attaching the two parts together. Now stored away with the rack.

The other job I had been putting off was attaching the material I had dyed to the rear seat fold out panels. This needed both adhesive and then the edges are stapled to the wooden boards. I only had ordinary metal staples (original were a brown colour), so a quick dab of brown enamel paint on them toned down the bright colour. I finally attached the metal plates I had previously painted using stainless Allen head bolts and I think they now look presentable. I will attach to the seats in due course after I have sorted out the mounting hardware, again looking to use Allen headed stainless bolts to replace the standard steel ones which are corroded.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Do you have a preferred place to order replacement nuts and bolts?  I have a few under bonnet items that have been replaced with nasty cheap bolts that are oxidising.  I guess I go stainless?

Work looks good.  I am wondering if I should have painted my fuel tank black Hammerite, the current stuff is still not dry?

I still cant get over your Galaxy dipped car    I had a Ford Mk2 Escort RS2000 BitD in venetian red, back then all the rage colours were the basics, now everyone loves the greens, dark and light blues, and light brown.  Funny isnt it

[Nigel]

Mark,
I use Screwfix for most nut/bolt needs. If they haven't got what I want, ebay is my
go to. Everything is there.

Peter, nice work-around on the column. I assume the slot for the lock is in the correct place.

Nigel

[SanRemo78]

I use eBay for odd fasteners, recommend Spalding Fasteners, they seem to have a pretty good range but most importantly they are usually next day delivery!

Guy

[WestonE]

Westfield Fasteners are solid suppliers with a good range and quality.

[peteracs]

Hi

Mark, I tend to use stainless bolts where the tension spec is not critical and reuse original where it is or unusual such as long hub bolts. My aim this time is to dry build sections and then where necessary have the old bolts replated. A bit labour intensive, but I then know I have everything I need.

As to supplier for stainless, usually Ebay, used a number on the Spider and so far had zero issues, I tend to look for A2 rated ones as they are more corrosion resistant.

Nigel, essentially yes the lock fits the same and the splines for the Steering wheel are the same which was a question raised a little while ago, so I can reuse the old steering wheel as well as the column shrouding.

Just on to stripping the pedal box for cleaning etc.

Peter

[HFStuart]

I tend to look for A2 rated ones as they are more corrosion resistant.

A Typo perhaps but

A2 = 304
A4 = 316

316 is typically regarded as more corrosion resistant  - especially in saline environments.

[peteracs]

Hi Stuart

Not a typo, merely my mistaken memory. You are correct A4 is better than A2. A2 is however what I tend to buy as balance of cost versus resistance. A4 tends to be aimed at harsh environments, think salt water etc from what I can see. There is another type, A1, which I understand is less resistant than A2.

On a positive note, having sorted out the steering column, I had been looking in a number of boxes for the keys for the car without success, however today a further dive into the very cluttered shed revealed a number of small takeaway containers with various dashboard etc parts and in one of them were two door keys and a single ignition key. I checked with the barrel on the column which worked ok and the two door locks use the same key which is a bonus. I have not come across the boot lock yet to try that, but hopefully it will fit the existing keys I have. I contacted John Richard in the Wirral who cut the keys for the Spider and he is still making them. He said send a photo of the profile, so hope he can cut a couple using that, if not will send up the key to him.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Whilst looking for the keys I came across the box with the Sun visors in. These are a cream colour, but looked like they had spent time down a mine.....

Fortunately they are in good condition and a bit of scrubbing has brought them to an acceptable condition. The photo still makes them look a little dingy, but are better in real life.

Peter

[peteracs]

Doing a few small jobs on items I see which need doing.

Today I had a play with the two interior lights which were well beyond their sell by date as far as the chrome coating was concerned, see first photo. I had used some ‘silver’ paint on the interior light of the Spider and still had some, so with nothing to lose, a bit of sanding, remove the black switch and tape the contacts you get the second photo (tape still on contacts). Looks more presentable if not shiny. Repeated on the second light I have.

Peter

[peteracs]

Final result after reinstalling the switch toggle and cleaning, installing the lens and stainless backing plate.

Peter