And So It Begins....

[SanRemo78]

One step forward, two back.... Or maybe putting this in writing will clear my thought processes?

I looked at the mechanical heater controls and there are three levers moving three cables, one operates the scuttle flap, one redirects the air from screen to cabin and the third opens/closes the water valve. So, I bought three linear actuators to control these functions, you can see one installed earlier in the thread. It's mated to the earlier metal heater valve I bought from Mark.

Today I was dry assembling everything to test it, and I'll come back to that in a minute... and I realised that there was a flap I've not got any movement on. It's the internal barrier that closes against the heater matrix and its operation is controlled by one of the cables that operates, via a crank, on the plastic heater valve.

So.. has anyone else swapped from the plastic valve to the earlier valve and what did you do? Intall another cable to control the valve or reroute the original one and leave the flap permanently open? I can't really see any issue with that but it must have been put there for a reason. I'm tempted to remove this flap completely, if it serves no function now I might as well be rid of it?

And the dry assembly was wet. I thought I'd better test the heater matrix before buttoning it up and yes, it leaked. I will try another but I suspect the sensible route is to have the leaking one recored. If that's possible.

[SanRemo78]

As you can see, the new fans have been installed on the original base plate but not tested yet. I need to run a few wires first! Anyway, here's a photo of the original valve showing the levers that operate the (now redundant) flap.

[SanRemo78]

I'm jumping around tasks at the moment, lots getting done but nothing finalised.
The minor cock up with the switch I ordered last week is resolved, I spoke to the eBay supplier when ordering the majority of the rest of the switches and they've supplied another "wrong" switch so that all I have to do is swap the bases from the fronts. The missing window momentary switches are in stock and will arrive tomorrow. I need to have a close look at them and work out the wiring as the instructions are suggesting complex relays are needed. I'm hoping they can be wired as changeover switches like the originals!

I also got to work on an Excel spreadsheet to layout what I want to achieve as the single DIN radio is going, don't smoke so the ashtray is going, got a watch so the clock is going and the HVAC controls are all going electric too. This leaves a gaping hole next to the instrument cluster that'll be filled with a double DIN head unit and a row of switches.
Left to right, electric window, heated rear window, rear fogs, hazard, front fogs, radiator fan and electric window. All the HVAC controls will move down to the centre console and should be recirculation, redirection, three speed fan, heater valve and aircon.

Having looked at the layout and the gaps between the switches I thought it looked a bit of a nightmare to cut out with the tools I have (Drills, files, hacksaws, jigsaws and a nibbler) so I surrendered and have ordered a couple in 3mm and a couple in 4mm to be laser cut. I think the front may need some subtle bending and the sides need folding too, maybe cutting and welding so there's extras for experimentation!

Guy

[SanRemo78]

Thought that the pdf template would appear but it didn't so sorry, you can download it easily enough!

For the switches I got them all from Bolt On Bits on eBay, everything came next day courier and issues were resolved with one phone call, they even remembered to email to tell me the out of stock ones were back in stock today! Can't fault them.

I went with this style rocker switch for each function I wanted, night illumination is green behind the logo with an on telltale in red/orange. I've sourced a couple of alternatives from another supplier for the hazard warning switch, a different base dedicated for the hazard with a red switch and also a black switch that is illuminated red. I think the hazard switch should be a little more visible?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364020864312

Guy

[SanRemo78]

And a closer look at it again after the posts above... First pic without the heater core shows the flap up. In this position it blanks the airflow through the matrix and forces it underneath where the airflow gets directed into the cabin or onto the screen via another flap. Second picture shows it flat which forces air through the heater matrix (but only when the heater valve is open). Third picture with the heater matrix in place which shows the opening below it is open for airflow when the valve and flap are closed.

The upshot it that I need to actuate this flap which will require another actuator. Luckily the pivot rod for this flap protudes out the other side of the box so it can be controlled on its own. It's longer than the others I've got as it has vacuum controls or sensors there actuated by a bolted on lever. I could redesign the actuator to work with a later plastic valve but they're hard to find and I've already got the metal one. Plus the new actuator can also be controlled by the same switch as the heater valve.

I've sorted it in my mind. The flap should be functional and not flat. Leaving it flat closes the airflow underneath the heater matrix and forces it to go through the matrix which may reduce the airflow by restricting it, not something that's wanted when I've got aircon installed and want maximum circulation.

[SanRemo78]

Airbox number two dismantled today. Found a loose screw in there, a rusty Allen key and bulkhead speedo cable grommet. Perished. Just like the heater core.

Bugger.

Looks like I'm going to get two recored, one for the shelf so I'll never need another one...

Guy

[SanRemo78]

Went for a drive today to get a quote from a recommended radiator recore company who happened to be next door to the guys who painted the Beta's shell. They won't entertain it and have pointed me in the direction of somebody who can. Quote requested but I may take a knackered one to the NEC on Sunday to see if anyone there has one for sale. Or if Coolex (who supplied the radiator) would make one, they're exhibiting.

If anyone else is looking for a spare heater core drop me a message, I don't know prices or discounts for multiples yet but can ask.

The laser cut dash panel arrived today too (4 off to give me chances to cock it up). The new switches clip in nicely and the fit is perfect. What I cocked up on was the Double DIN aperture. The standard size is the external dimensions of the radio and that matches the internal dimensions of the cage. Which I forgot to allow for. Nothing half an hour with a scribe and a file won't fix. The panel will need folding to shape and trimming on the passenger side which shouldn't be a problem and it'll need a couple of folds too. Then I'll have a nice shiny ally panel to trim with some black vinyl to match the rest of the dash. That material will come of the old seat backs that I kept for reasons unknown. If I can separate the vinyl from the plastic back that is. Oh - I kept them as they have a date mark on them - sort of a souvenir. Not the date the car was made, just the date the seat back was done I suspect. Just In Time manufacturing probably wasn't a thing in 1980/81?

Guy

[SanRemo78]

Getting close to being able to button up the HVAC system. The new heater matrix arrived today at a cost of £190.80 for a one off. There is one row less than the original Lancia one, 12 vs 13 but I doubt that will make much/any difference. It'll be better than the old clogged one! There are minor differences but none significant and it fits into the heater box as intended. The ONLY modifications I can see are the valve flange is a slightly wider shape which means I ought to shave a bit off the side of the casing for a perfect fit and the valve will be held on with nuts on studs instead of bolts into captive floating nuts. I think that's an improvement. The last linear actuator also arrived last week so I think the last job will be sorting out the enlarged drain Eric is so keen to see!

[SanRemo78]

More work on the radiator pack install required. The mounting brackets are all made but there wasn't enough clearance for the fans behind the grill to push air through the aircon matrix. Luckily the eccentric mounts I'd made for the bottom of the radiator could be turned around to move the main radiator back to where it needs to be but the upper ones will need to be remade. Simple enough task for next week. The oil cooler brackets are also done but not as straight forward as I expected - the upper one is mounted to the rear face of the crossmember underneath where the strut brace bolts and who knew that that face isn't flat! It has some serious shaping to it that necessitated some judicious use of a hammer and dolly to get anywhere near a good fit. One more bracket to design/make to support the right side of the aircon radiator and I can button up the front of the car. I think that support will be built into the side ducting if the reach isn't too far.

[SanRemo78]

Lots happening but not much on the Beta. I ended up rethinking the oil cooler mounts and putting the rubber bobbins that insulate it from vibration on the inside of the cooler rather than outside. That way, should any nuts work loose/fall off it'll still be suspended. I also moved it slightly further back to align with the back of the water radiator so that meant Mark 2 brackets being fabricated. Last bracket for the left side of the car has also been made to direct air through the cores, fans installed on the front of the aircon radiator and a final trial install with the grille in place all shows enough clearance so the various brackets are now being powder coated and will be back next week. I hope!

I should have some photos to update the thread then as I finally fix that lot in place and finish the front end build. Next task is to finish are the mountings for the scroll compressor which will be fun as it's going to sit on the inner arch just in front of the chassis plate which will mean relocating the coil in due course. I can see that ending up under the slam panel to strut top bracket.

Decision made on the sandwich plate for the oil cooler too. I got one with the Guy Croft engine (never fitted) but the quality isn't great so I've opted for a T7 Design one for a Honda that has an integral thermostat and additional ports for senders (that I won't use) and an Accusump (which I probably will install once I've decided on size and install location - more credit card pain!). Reminder to self - order a longer central mounting bolt for the sandwich plate...

[WestonE]

Hi Guy on the Oil Fittings. Torques on eBay provide very good quality parts that are beautifully made. Far better than the rough cast and porous Mocal rubbish I had at one point and IMHO better than Goodrich quality. I am fitting the Accusump vertically in front of the battery. It needed a 90 degree fitting for the pressure gauge for clearance. Check out the photos of my build for this along with various nicely machined Torques hose fittings.

I spent plenty of time on the radiator and oil cooler fitting challenge. Which can be seen there as well. The custom radiator sitting on the lower cross member and tilted forwards was the solution for packaging and the bulk of the VX and Manifolds.

Eric   

[SanRemo78]

Thanks for the input Eric, I can't tilt the radiators forward as it would push the fans through the grille (and I don't want to fit the later style shield grill to create a little more room).
With them sat on the crossmember there should be enough room for the twin 40's and I think the Accusump could be fitted on a bracket attached to the original lower radiator mounts. Just need to decide on which size/capacity is best suited to the twink.
Guy

[SanRemo78]

It's like Christmas has arrived early! Latest batch of powder coated bracketry was collected yesterday. 8 of the 10 parts are various radiator supports plus there's one for the air con dryer bottle and one that does underneath the rear of the car, behind the right wheel. I think that one protects the fuel tank and sunroof drain tube exits? Amazingly it's the original one and only had minor surface corrosion under the paint from 1981. I might get the radiators assembled (and out of harms way) over the next few days and the only bracket I need to design and have laser cut will be the single radiator fan support.
Guy

[SanRemo78]

Well the day after the last post I came down with flu.... Recovered enough (I thought) for Christmas Day and managed to cook the turkey and all the trimmings before the alcohol reminded me I wasn't fit still. Just about fully over it now, New Years is out of the way and if the cat doesn't need any more emergency visits to the vets I may be able to start making a little more progress!

And to that end I think I can declare the radiator pack installation done bar a little ducting for the oil cooler that a bit of rubber sheet will fix!

The side panels are now in place to support one end of the air con radiator and close off airflow to the sides of the oil and water radiators. The last task on this install was the main radiator fan, I was going to use the bosses on the sides of the radiator and get a custom bracket made but realised that this was pushing the fan back further than necessary. I fixed it with a set of through radiator pins before I remembered about the mounting channels taking up space top and bottom. Fortunately I hadn't trimmed the pins and could remove them. I ended up making some stand off mounts in the end to space the fan off before the pins were reinstated and trimmed.

The air con radiator is now in place too, I know it clears the back of the grille (just) but installation of that and the front valance and bumper will have to wait until the mount for the compressor is thought out and made. I don't want a solid mount to the body if I can avoid that but once it's in place I can plumb the air con system in.

[SanRemo78]

The whole radiator pack now sits on the front crossmember making the original lower mounts redundant for now. The radiator fan is mounted at the same plane as the back of the original radiator without its' fan cowling. This should leave sufficient room for the engine with twin 40's and a decent air filter. I'm going to see if I can utilise the original radiator supports as mounts for an Accusump - the positioning looks right for a short, straight hose run to the oil cooler sandwich plate.

It's so tempting to try dropping the engine in at this point.... But it's too early for now.

[SanRemo78]

There's an issue not yet resolved with the headlights..... Whilst they fit into the trim rings nicely enough they're deeper than the standard lights so they're protruding further maybe 15mm? I need to revisit this as it's preventing the surrounds going on nicely. I haven't worked out how to resolve this yet but I don't want to have to space the trims off the front crossmember if I can avoid it or they won't line up with the lower locating pin sockets...

[Nigel]

Guy,

Would the headlamp backing plate fit behind the bodywork in any way?

N

[peteracs]

Hi Guy

Did I miss the reasoning, but why have 3 radiator fans?

Peter

[SanRemo78]

Nigel - I don't think so, had a quick look at it but I'm not sure what the resolution will be yet. It may be that I need to get the car settled at its final ride height and adjust the beam pattern before finalising this. It appears to be the outer top mount that's fouling the front of the top adjuster screw. It may be possible to do a little surgery on the bracket to make clearance but that's the last resort and I'll wait until the lower valance is in place to locate the bottom pins.

Peter - one fan for the radiator, that's within the engine bay, and two for the air con radiator to give it the best chance of being effective at cooling the cabin.

Guy

[peteracs]

Hi Guy

Ok, it looked like the radiators are both together and you had one fan on one side and the others on the other side.

Peter