Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 31091 times)

Nigel · « **Reply #340 on:** January 25, 2026, 10:00:55 PM »

You just remove the plastic filler strip,
screws underneath.

n

Ferrit · « **Reply #341 on:** January 25, 2026, 10:34:55 PM »

your a star, thanks Nigel

Ferrit · « **Reply #342 on:** February 01, 2026, 12:56:35 PM »

new old head here, now off to the engineers next week to be tested

Ferrit · « **Reply #343 on:** February 09, 2026, 03:20:41 PM »

Yay!! Head has passed pressure test. Order bits next

In between constant rain I managed to fit the door checks after a clean and paint, and guess what, they still dont work.

Fitted the cam-belt tensioner with new bearing and new/old spring tensioner bolt (thank you Peter). Hopefully this week I will get the carpet and centre console out and maybe the rear door cards

Mark

Ferrit · « **Reply #344 on:** February 17, 2026, 07:05:36 PM »

So cams are both SNAFU. Alan is looking for some good used ones for me. New I have found one from the US new in South London and I guess I could by the other from the same source in the US? Lets see if I can get hold of some used ones first.

Picture shows where they have been hitting the valve bucket I believe.

Ordered valves and guides from AE Car today and Tanc Barrett are looking for the balance for me. Darren Cooksie recommended TB and also mentioned valve guide seals from a 8v Delta Turbo are a better bet.

I removed the centre console and more trim in my stripping the interior quest. How do the rear seat backs come out on a Coupe? Bottom screw I have found. I am going to look at restoring the colour from mud green to black hopefully using Polytrol (as per Guy's tip a while ago). So a quick look under the carpet and its still got the original sound dreading. There is a random screw I need to figure out where its coming from as its sticking up through the carpet from the underside. Or cut it off.

I am going to try and figure out a new 12v fused supply for the stereo and phone chargers etc. I would like to inc new oil pressure and temp gauges in the stereo slot at some point in the future, so my question would be, where is an easy entrance into the interior from the under bonnet and can I run aftermarket gauges at the same time as the original binacle gauges?

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #345 on:** February 17, 2026, 08:27:49 PM »

Random screw from underneath? It might be one of three screws securing the exhaust heat shield?

I'll try to have a look through my spares for you and see if there are some spare camshafts in the bits and pieces I've got if that helps but it may not be until the weekend before I can have a look - visitors and then off to Gerrys' on Sunday for a week!

Rear seat backs - take the spare wheel out and then the fir tree fixing the carpet to the back of the boot and remove the carpet. You'll see two 8mm (or 10mm) nuts, unscrew them and the seat packs are free!

Guy

Ferrit · « **Reply #346 on:** February 17, 2026, 09:02:24 PM »

I was thinking the same on the heat shield :-)

thanks for the cam-shafts possible help, and thanks for the seat info.

Nigel · « **Reply #347 on:** February 17, 2026, 09:20:15 PM »

Mark,
I found a wiring route that was fairly easy at the left side of the brake servo. In
mine it's where the a/c pipework used to be. Not sure whether you'll have a grommet
there.
Another spot is behind the wiper motor but you'd have to remove it to get there.

Nigel

peteracs · « **Reply #348 on:** February 17, 2026, 09:41:29 PM »

Hi

Will have a look through my camboxes and see what I have.

Peter

squiglyzigly · « **Reply #349 on:** February 17, 2026, 09:41:33 PM »

The marks on the edges of the camshaft lobe peaks are correct and are not damage. I believe they maybe to spin the buckets and shims to even out wear and/or to silence the slap when the lobe hits the shim. But this is not damage as far as I’m aware.

peteracs · « **Reply #350 on:** February 17, 2026, 11:11:51 PM »

Hi Mark

Ian is correct (as you would expect), just dug out my exhaust cam and every lobe has those triangular marks, so assuming the rest of the lobes and bearing surfaces are ok, you are good to go.

Peter

Ferrit · « **Reply #351 on:** February 17, 2026, 11:46:34 PM »

I assumed this when I stepped the head. So much work…. So many conversations etc 🤷‍♂️

That is good news. Engineers sent a video I will upload and share

Thanks guys for potentially saving another packet. So many beers I owe 🤣

Ferrit · « **Reply #352 on:** February 17, 2026, 11:58:08 PM »

https://youtube.com/shorts/1A-WmXQWcpo?si=pBiM96it-sSlI3Mz

It looks like some have the marks and some don’t, maybe it’s been re-ground or dressed?

I will call him in the morning

Ferrit · « **Reply #353 on:** February 23, 2026, 10:18:01 PM »

So head should be back by the 6th March - new valves, guides, seals and springs. He is measuring cams tomorrow.

Meanwhile gear change bits and bobs out. New bushes fitted tonight as Mangocrazy's instructions, worked a treat, thank you for that. The old ones where so stiff. This should be interesting when its all back in. I have ordered a gaiter and bush for the rod on the gearbox from Mark, with a Gearstick Throw Reduction Kit. While I was there I have found the bolt sticking through the carpet. I will spin it about and stick it the other way with a couple nuts. I will start building it back up get the carpet back in. Then a bit of rust proofing...

Anyone have any thoughts on what I can replace the gaiter for the gear rod exiting the car, ts not in great nick?

peteracs · « **Reply #354 on:** February 24, 2026, 07:55:31 AM »

Hi Mark

That gaiter if not prefect, maybe repair with rubber and superglue or similar?

Peter

Ferrit · « **Reply #355 on:** February 24, 2026, 10:28:50 PM »

gear-change rods all ready. They are so smooth, cant wait to feel the difference. There is a little bit of play in the bell-crank but that will need to wait. Mark had a good gaiter and the plastic gate thingy. Which way does it go back in?

Mark

Ferrit · « **Reply #356 on:** February 24, 2026, 10:30:18 PM »

Oh and adjusted my steering when so hopefully on straight now

JASPER_40 · « **Reply #357 on:** February 25, 2026, 02:35:40 AM »

Hi Mark,

Is it possible to remove the spindle downwards ? Talking about the spindle that goes through the support attached to the subframe.

Otherwise it looks like the subframe would have to be dropped or the steering rack removed to get this spindle out. The reason I ask is that there is a spacer/washer in this assembly that is probably nylon and used to cushion the movement of the spindle. It often wears to destruction and causes the gearshift action to sound "clunky" because of the vertical play (see item 29 on the following pic)

Cheers,

Steve

Ferrit · « **Reply #358 on:** February 25, 2026, 09:29:40 AM »

I have a tiny bit of wear. For the time being its staying put. at some point the either the rack of subframe will need to move to get to it. I guess its depends on how the gear change feels? Tbh it wasnt terrible before I started, well maybe a bit terrible ;-)

peteracs · « **Reply #359 on:** February 25, 2026, 06:36:49 PM »

Hi

I had to do this last year to address the upwards movement to improve gear change. I had to take the rack bolts out and that allowed the rack to move upwards by just enough to remove the pin. It is a PITA and a little more design thought would have made it so much easier....

Peter

News:

Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 31091 times)