SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[Ferrit]

Can you rebuild the Compensator?  Found a new one in Italy

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

If the tank is not leaking/weeping I would do nothing to it, looks in amazing condition compared to many.

No idea on spring, could be one of the locks.

Peter

[SanRemo78]

I'll echo Peters comments, that tank looks very good, maybe just needs a clean out? Check the gauze on the pick up pipe but it looks all good. The brake compensator is available from Mark and other sources but check the boot you get with it as it may not be right. Hopefully you will find the original is usable after a bit of cleaning and reconditioning.

The spring might be from the bonnet pull handles?

[Ferrit]

I will do that.  I will clean it up and leave that area alone.  Re: cleaning inside, some fuel and slosh it around for a while i am assuming.  Most of the tank inside is spotless.  Sender unit looks all good inc the gauze.

Its such a shame the Artex stylee stone chip they have used on sills, arches and tank is vile.  Winter project is remove it all, and redo in smooth.

Bingo Guy, top of the class, it is the bonnet release spring! 😎

[Ferrit]

While on brakes, any recommendations for new hozes and fluid type?

[SanRemo78]

New hoses are available from Mark, I'm sure you can also get stainless braided hoses but I'm not a huge fan of those as the covering can hide deterioration of the rubber underneath. Make your own mind up on that. Brake fluid on my car will be whatever is specced in the Haynes manual, haven't got to that point yet. Any work on the brake system should start with the knowledge that the bleed nipples aren't seized. And a part of the regular maintenance on my car will be the regular cracking and re-tightening of the bleed valves.

[Ferrit]

Nigel ran me through a plan of action for bleed nipples.  I will tread carefully.  I think its been bled in the last couple years.  The fluid looks clean.

Any thoughts on what to paint the tank with?  I was going to go with a top coat of a smooth spray underseal

[Ferrit]

did a quick tally of costs in my work spreadsheet, I think I might have another £500 to go to get it roadworthy (phase 1), but most of the must do items so far are only coming to £650. 

I have a sneaking feeling once running I will find a bunch more to do.  Phase 2 will be tidy the wiring and get the vile stone-chip (Artex) off.  On the wiring front I gingerly removed the fuse/relay box cover which is very cracked and glued together.  Half the relays are missing but are next to the box with wiring all spliced into.  I think I can reverse this.  It all works currently though.  Amazing.

[Ferrit]

In other posts here I get the point on the 'fake' jacking points. 

I used some ply yesterday to jack up on the sill near to one of those manufacturing/assembly points.  Everything seems very strong and I only did this briefly.  When I do the bushes and brakes I am going to need some serious guidance from you lot as I would normally just stick it up on axle stands, all four wheels off.  I can do an axle at a time with the bushes etc, but bleeding brakes it would be handy

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

I always use the front subframe for jacking and axle stands. For the rear I use the mount of rear anti roll bar on the body.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Evening Peter, I was looking at that last night.  I led there for ages, just looking about trying to figure this out.  Do you use a piece of timber/ply to protect?

[Neil-yaj396]

Evening Peter, I was looking at that last night.  I led there for ages, just looking about trying to figure this out.  Do you use a piece of timber/ply to protect?

I use one of those rubber bung type jack protectors that are cheap to buy. There is a jacking plate under the rear valance, but like Peter I use the ARB point as you can't get the car up very far with a normal jack on the rear plate.

[peteracs]

Hi

Yes I keep a pile of off cuts and always use on top of Jack and stands, spreads the load and protects the metal.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Hi Mark

I always use the front subframe for jacking and axle stands. For the rear I use the mount of rear anti roll bar on the body.

Peter

At the rear jack off the central transverse links subframe suitably protected?  I feel like I need to make a 'jacking block' that fits here perfectly?  Fronts easy.  Jack on the wishbones, AS on the subframe.

I have now gone down a rabbithole of brake fluids...   

Thanks to Guy I now have a jack.  When new where did the tool kit live?

Paperwork off to DVLA today

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

Do not forget to message/email me your address so I can send the fuse box lid.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Washed the boot out last night.  Tonight i start on the tank.  Hopefully get the tank and hoses back in this weekend.  Then on to bushes if they show up.

Also found a post on a test forum from Peter about keys.  I have a glovebox lock thats not the same as the rest of the keys (doors and boot).  I tried to repin but i dont have enough of the right pins.  So i removed them all.  So it sort of works   

Noticed a wire off, any thoughts?

[HFStuart]

Oil pressure gauge or oil pressure warning light?

[peteracs]

Black/white there is normally pad wear indicator, which may or not be connected if the pads do not have it.

Peter

[Ferrit]

can you buy fuel pipe clips?

[HFStuart]

Try here

https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Pipe_Clips.html