Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 39164 times)

Ferrit · « **Reply #160 on:** August 19, 2025, 12:27:47 AM »

Checked the rear suspension torque settings again using the torques Alan helped me with. Thanks again Alan 😎. Replaced the bushes in the compensator linkage. Quick road test revealed it’s still clonking, I am sure it’s the exhaust now.

Quick question, how much play should there be in the rear wheel bearings?

Also adjusted the throttle cable using Nigel’s formula. Much better but not quite…. Maybe it’s the wrong cable. I will check again.

Nigel · « **Reply #161 on:** August 19, 2025, 09:21:55 PM »

Mark,
There shouldn't be any play in the wheel bearings. If you feel some,
then there's probably some wear. Typically, a noisy rumble is more likely.
They are not adjustable.

On mine, the throttle cable crimped section enters the outer plastic sleeve slightly
on full throttle. I don't know if this is normal but I suspect not.

N.

Ferrit · « **Reply #162 on:** August 20, 2025, 11:35:42 AM »

Add new wheel bearings to my list

NS is defo the worst

Re: Throttle cable: Same here on the cable end, it sometimes gets jammed and will not smoothly enter the outer (and I think this is why it was adjusted not to open the second choke), there was a some heat shrink covering this to smooth it out but has perished. Anyone have a clue what part number or length my cable inner/outer should be?

I will re-look at this over the weekend and see if the angle of attack can be adjusted.. Thanks Nigel

peteracs · « **Reply #163 on:** August 20, 2025, 03:14:53 PM »

Hi Mark

Good news/bad news

The good is the rear bearings are easier to replace than the fronts (slightly), the bad is ideally you will need a decent rattle gun to get the retaining ring off which needs a special tool or you can use a chisel and hammer but need to replace the retaining ring. The front and rear retaining rings look the same but are slightly different sizes. They are often hard to remove.

Peter

Ferrit · « **Reply #164 on:** August 20, 2025, 03:54:38 PM »

I will check the rings tonight then and order 4x bearings and a tool, I have a gun :-)

TVM Peter, your items are here btw, thank you again

Ferrit · « **Reply #165 on:** August 20, 2025, 11:25:00 PM »

I didnt get around to checking the wheel bearings tonight. I did an oil and filter change on the Beta and my VW Caravelle ready for a lads bike and hike trip to the French Alps in a week and a bit.

The VW is my previous project which was a complete mechanical refurb of a 150k 11 year old t5.1 BiTDI 180bhp 4motion van. It had a wasted engine, so I had a new VW crate engine and turbo's fitted 18m ago.

So the Beta... When I got the car the engine oil was milky so I changed oil for some cheaper Halfords stuff before I could drive it This time I changed the oil and filter after giving it a 30 min run. I used an engine flush before changing it. I have another change of oil ready. I was thinking the flush stuff will be still in the engine a little bit, so I will do this again in the next few weeks to really make sure. I got a free almost gallon when the delivery people delivered a 'bag of oil'. So why not.

It was going dark when I finished, and the car wouldnt start. Maybe I knocked something off taking the filter off? One that note, OMG the filter is horrible to change!! Any tips? I was really careful but what a mess.

Ferrit · « **Reply #166 on:** August 20, 2025, 11:37:58 PM »

Oh forgot to mention. The 30m drive was quite nice. I took it easy and nice a slow gear changes. The clonking at the back NS is only when I go over big bumps. I will investigate the bearings because it does seem loose, only other thing I havnt tried is strut bolts on the top. The thing is when you are just pootling along is pretty silent. Combination of horrible roads where I live and the exhaust noise its hard to work out whats going on. I will keep looking.

I have ordered a bunch of things from Midwest Bayless Italian Auto, including a gear change refurb kit that was quite good value for money and a magnetic sump plug and a few other parts. Three days it was here, mad isnt it!

peteracs · « **Reply #167 on:** August 21, 2025, 11:12:05 AM »

Hi Mark

I had a clonking at the rear which did indeed turn out to be one of the two straps holding the exhaust box which runs just behind the back seats had one of the bolts come loose. Tightened it and all has been good.

Peter

Ferrit · « **Reply #168 on:** August 21, 2025, 01:52:07 PM »

I was thinking it might be a lot quicker if I could get it on a ramp and have a beak underneath with a Quick-fit-fitter ;-)

When taking it easy through the gears, its smooth and quiet, its the bumps that faze it. I will not ignore that wheel bearing though. Some point I need one of you to drive it. Rear end feels very soggy

Ferrit · « **Reply #169 on:** August 21, 2025, 10:21:46 PM »

Quote from: Ferrit on August 20, 2025, 11:25:00 PM

It was going dark when I finished, and the car wouldnt start. Maybe I knocked something off taking the filter off? One that note, OMG the filter is horrible to change!! Any tips? I was really careful but what a mess.

Found it today. Broken wire into the dizzy

peteracs · « **Reply #170 on:** August 21, 2025, 11:31:04 PM »

Quote from: Ferrit on August 21, 2025, 01:52:07 PM

Rear end feels very soggy

Not much to go wrong at the back, either bushes or dampers or combination of both. Would be odd if the springs were at fault as car is pretty light especially at the back. Bushes are easy to check, whilst there check the rear mounting bars for the hubs are not bent. Not uncommon for folk to use them to tow a car and they are pretty fragile if used for that.

Rear tracking issues would cause issues with handling in corners normally. Easy enough to check using the string method at home.

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #171 on:** August 22, 2025, 07:18:49 AM »

Don't forget to check top mounts and look for worn shocks too? If the bottom bolts aren't seized then shock removal is straight forward, four nets at the top accessible from the boot, two bolts at the bottom and the strut drops out.

Ferrit · « **Reply #172 on:** August 22, 2025, 10:19:19 AM »

I will check the top bolts this weekend and have a nose about again

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #173 on:** August 22, 2025, 10:40:19 AM »

If the issue is with the top mounts it'll be the state of the rubber in the mount itself. Unfortunately that best way of inspecting those is to get the struts off the car and compress the springs.

Ferrit · « **Reply #174 on:** August 23, 2025, 09:56:14 PM »

Quote from: Ferrit on August 21, 2025, 10:21:46 PM

Quote from: Ferrit on August 20, 2025, 11:25:00 PM
It was going dark when I finished, and the car wouldnt start. Maybe I knocked something off taking the filter off? One that note, OMG the filter is horrible to change!! Any tips? I was really careful but what a mess.

Found it today. Broken wire into the dizzy

Fixed it.

Plus fitted my new to be screws in the boot Peter sent over :-) Thanks again Peter

Ferrit · « **Reply #175 on:** August 23, 2025, 10:02:51 PM »

Anyone have one of the bonnet retaining wire I am missing I could buy or borrow to copy?

Mark

Ferrit · « **Reply #176 on:** August 23, 2025, 10:08:53 PM »

Looking at it I am sure I can have a stab at making this np.

Another question, should the dipstick be hollow enough to blow through?

Mark

Nigel · « **Reply #177 on:** August 23, 2025, 10:30:01 PM »

The dipstick is indeed hollow as it has a level gauge on the dash, which
uses that feature to pull up the oil.

N

Ferrit · « **Reply #178 on:** August 26, 2025, 02:36:32 PM »

Think I found my clunking…

https://youtu.be/MKDfbMvqDEM?si=dvsk73RvjwN8uASz

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #179 on:** August 26, 2025, 04:44:47 PM »

That's a clonk alright but is it the top mount making it or the shock absorber or a spring mounting rubber pad missing?

News:

Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 39164 times)