SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[WestonE]

I have seen these on eBay, but not search UK suppliers recently.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275632226840

[Ics19]

I have seen these on eBay, but not search UK suppliers recently.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275632226840

That's an interesting gasket - I've looked at these in the past but was deterred by the different shape around the outer edge at the cam belt belt - I assume it's sufficient to still make suitable contact, but does look off compared to the stock version - or is this the wrong gasket despite the listing claim?  Apologies for the crude gasket comparison attached:

[WestonE]

I had not noticed that difference and will have to dig out my Guy Croft supplied base gaskets that I am carefully hording to see what the profile looks like. Because I have these I have not spent time looking for a current suppliers. Gloria GC's widow does still supply some parts. Without that it is back to smearing RTV on each side when fitting. Note NOT applying huge beads of the stuff which then breaks away in use bocking the oil pump screen!

[Ferrit]

Yep I will going old school.  I will be using a minimal amount of Wellseal.  Its taken a couple goes to get the clearances close.  Done now.  New camshaft seals in.  Dry run hopefully in the morning.  s***ting myself now 

'Safe position' in GC book, is that timing marks aligned?  Pistons and aux drive were aligned to the timing marks before I removed the head.  I will do the dry run with the old (<500 miles) belt and the spare head gasket that came with the gasket set. 

[lancialulu]

It is easy to bend a valve head so go very slowly.... c -/+10 degree TDC is the critical point (-ex +in)

[Ferrit]

If I align all the marks before I put it back together that should be right, right? :-)

[peteracs]

Remember you are running larger valves with domed pistons, so as well as timing clearance on cutouts may be an issue, though I know you are using clay or similar on pistons to check for clearance. As Tim says go very slowly......

All the best with it.

Peter

[Ferrit]

tell me about it, I am c###ing myself!  What can go wrong, vx head 130tc cams on and engine I dont have a clue about that sort of ran before?!!

Alan had an idea, I have an endoscope that is can change the view to two-way from the side.  Thinking I carefully stick it down a cylinder without the clay and video

[peteracs]

Hi .Mark

That might work, but would be hard to see the exact clearance you have maybe?

Peter

[WestonE]

OK Crank at TDC Cams at the timing marks you made when you timed the cams in. Your exhaust valves will be standard size. Your inlets will be 43.5 or 44mm verses standard 42mm. The reason you timed the cams to the boxes and marked the cams and boxes directly is so you are not misled by unsuitable cam wheel marks.

Follow GC's instructions to find and mark TDC accurately to a fixed pointer not a flimsy belt cover. This procedure will involve a DTI tool and a protractor stuck to the crank pulley with blu tack.

A slow dry build turn over with Plasticine to check will do you no harm as long as the crank cams and Aux DS are correctly positioned. Do NOT turn 1 cam independently of the other with both fitted or put the head down on a bench on the valves. Upside down or side on only to avoid bending your new valves.
 
2 old head bolts with the tops cut off and flat blade screwdriver slots made in the top of the shank can be used to guide the head down onto the block accurately. Remember the gasket and dowels. First stage head gasket tight will do. NB I used an ebay cheap and nasty head gasket for this dry build provided it is a similar thickness.
 
If at any stage you are not sure walk away for a cup of tea and a read of GC's book.
Keep every thing surgically clean. Grimy benches and dirty tools is dirt and grit in your engine. Time with the marigolds is well spent!     

Enjoy your success.

[WestonE]

If at any point in turning over it becomes suddenly stiff STOP and check you are working from both cams at their TDC marks. The Aux DS is timed at 37 degrees to stop the lobe hitting No2 Conrod. I do not use a manual fuel pump on any of my engines s the lobe removal and plug has been done. With that done no need to time the Aux DS. 

[Ferrit]

Thank you for all your help.

So dry run head on yesterday with the set head gasket and some playdoh.  Long story short I have 7.1mm of clearance, so even taking into account the better head gasket is thinner by 0.1 and torqued down I feel I am going to be okay.

This morning I sorted out the cam end-float thingy.  Using one on top of the other worked really well.

Added the manifolds and when Team Ferris got back from rugby and football duties we all lifted it into place.  Head bolts fitted as per Guy Crofts instructions and cam-belt fitted, I still need to tighten the tensioner.

I know I am not doing this as well as some of you guys.  Time and money are against me so fingers crossed and with prayer to the Twin-Cam gods it will be okay ;-)  Its worth a try.

Few bits & bobs to go:

Cam belt tensioner
Back of head brackets
Cam cov gaskets
Exhaust down pipes
Oil plug and let drain the last few drops of the old oil
Water rail
Water pump pulley
Tension other belts
Hoses
Exp tank and bracket
Carb
Dizzy

Electric connections to the sensors etc
Coolant - flush it at least once
Oil (filer changed) I have a Millers running in oil I am going to run initially to flush everything out, and then change the oil and filter with the right stuff

Spark plugs and leads

[Ferrit]

What a lovely day on Saturday.  View from my tea 

[WestonE]

Nice work and the Tea is a VITAL component!

[SanRemo78]

Excellent - hope you had a beer later! Keep the champagne on ice until the successful startup!
Guy

[Ferrit]

Thanks.  Right I have a day off tomorrow, and the forcast looks good.  Plan is to have it running.

Forgot to mention, those yeld bolts give you the creeps doing up the final 90d :-O

[Nigel]

I see one of your jobs is the cam belt tensioner.....
Hope you had the belt tightish when rotating the engine for
clearence testing.

N

[Ferrit]

I used the old belt (<500 miles :-) )with the tensioner 'loose' for about 5 or 6 full turns.

Now with a new belt.  Time to check as per Guy Crofts instructions and torque up, and not break the spring bolt this time :-)))

Exhaust downpipes fitted tonight after work, that went a lot easier than I imagined.  Day off tomorrow to really sort this out

[SanRemo78]

Shout if you do break it - I may have a spare but no promises! Try to tighten it fully by using the flats behind the spring where the bolt will take more strain? I know it's hard to gauge the torque applied there but I'd rather have it fully tight than risk snapping a hard to get bolt...

[HFStuart]

What a lovely day on Saturday.  View from my tea 

And in the correct mug too.