Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 70794 times)

peteracs · « **Reply #480 on:** May 18, 2026, 02:49:32 PM »

Quote from: JASPER_40 on May 18, 2026, 10:34:50 AM

MOT ?...Do you need one for a Classic car or are you just wanting the assurance ?

As Tim says a good check on your work (or anyone else's which is as important). Case in point was my car ran really well and the brakes were really good, so would not have checked them without the MOT guy commenting on the fronts dragging slightly. Not enough to fail, but not as he would have expected. On checking I found a weeping out of the front piston vent hole which indicated a weeping seal. Without the MOT brake test I would never have known and may have led to excessive brake wear and overheating perhaps.

Peter

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #481 on:** May 18, 2026, 03:23:17 PM »

Plus one for the annual test, peace of mind that someone else can have. look over it and identify any wear that comes in gradually that you don't notice driving the car until it's too late. Insurance is another issue, prove it was maintained properly in the event of a claim? MOT history is a good starting point. Interestingly, although the Stratos replica is registered as a Historic Vehicle the mere fact that it's a kit (or a Radically Altered Vehicle) means MOT tests forever....
Guy

Nigel · « **Reply #482 on:** May 18, 2026, 04:28:40 PM »

I'm another that does annual MOT's.

In a previous year the tester found a rack boot split. I told
him I'd not have spotted that for quite a while.

As said already, although the MOT is just a snap-shot, it will
demonstrate vehicle care and upkeep to officialdom.

N.

peteracs · « **Reply #483 on:** May 18, 2026, 04:32:51 PM »

I actually take the view that every two years is sufficient given the mileage I do.

Peter

deks · « **Reply #484 on:** May 18, 2026, 04:55:30 PM »

Quote from: peteracs on May 12, 2026, 10:52:32 PM

My view is if you have to start worrying about the cost, then you should not do it

This is advice I am keen to read and think maybe I need heed.

Ferrit · « **Reply #485 on:** May 19, 2026, 11:05:43 PM »

Loctite 542 turned up so removed the stud which was loose. Dave was right.

Measured the depth, checked against the studs from the old head and were the same. What I actually ended up doing was flipped the stud and tested if it would bottom out, and it did so cleaned it all out as best as I could and Loctited in. Tightened up all the nuts on the manifold. I will leave it 24 hours and give it a go.

Some Funk Motorsport wrap is here tomorrow so I will wrap what I can to hopefully protect the rack seals a little bit more

Ferrit · « **Reply #486 on:** May 22, 2026, 12:36:03 AM »

Right so far no manifold stud or rack leaks. I didnt get around to fitting the heat wrap. I need to remove the shroud of the manifold to have a fighting chance, and the lower downpipess are not going to make a huge difference on their own.

I thought I would fit the Filter King the dyno people recommended. 30 min job took 3 hrs, due to 1. me being an idiot and connecting it up before the pump first go, and 2. me being an idiot and pinging a fuel line clip behind the aux pulley. [sigh], set at 3psi (purchased from Glencoe as recommended by Eric).

Got there in the end and ran is round the block. Gear change feels amazing, steering is good. Need to move the steering UJ as the steering wheel is at 2pm. Maybe next week I will have a look at lights as if I want to go to Mark's open day I might need them on the way back.

Maybe tomorrow night I will run it to the top of the North Downs and take a child to help record some run-by's so I hear what it sounds like :-) Tidied my workshop and I have a clear bench for the first time since November...

Ferrit · « **Reply #487 on:** May 23, 2026, 11:44:03 PM »

Lots of little jobs...

tried to sort the steering wheel at 2 o'clock. What a pig that is on a South Facing drive at 30d heat. Its better but now at 12.30. Put the spring on the bonnet release leaver, fitted some black cap heads the the bonnet grill, finished the interior.

Quick test drive with my Nephew who had never been in anything old before. 9pm cooling evening on local roads, he seemed quite blown away. No petrol, PAS or oil leaks so far. Monday I will go further. Then next week its headlights time

Ferrit · « **Reply #488 on:** May 26, 2026, 12:27:32 PM »

Yesterday I braved the heat and had a play with cables...

Both clutch and throttle felt a bit heavy and not smooth. So I disconnected and ran some cycling dry Teflon lube down them both, fitted a tube and gently blew. Massive difference to both in use.

I also adjusted the throttle linkage so it pulled straight, because the cable was following going onto the second choke. There is a local'ish company who make cables who have been recommended. I will get some made as I cant source either, maybe at the end of the summer?

Went for a drive last night into the hills and think its running too lean looking at the plugs so having a play with this later. I am not taking it back to the garage for various reasons. I think one day I will go find a good company to dyno my car...

I think I need a gazebo up at the drive it south facing. My rubber gloves were dripping yesterday and I was in the shade...

Exhaust wrap and new/recon headlight bowls to be fitted next....

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #489 on:** May 26, 2026, 12:51:22 PM »

I reckon that throttle cable is from a LHD car. It should be much much shorter, almost straight! I've got a new one for my build but I haven't tried fitting it yet as the engine isn't in yet... It may not work with the twin 40's!

Guy

Ferrit · « **Reply #490 on:** May 26, 2026, 12:57:40 PM »

these people make cables, and I have been informed from a mate (who used to build Bond cars etc) they are really good

https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components.html

Ferrit · « **Reply #491 on:** May 26, 2026, 12:58:45 PM »

Quote from: SanRemo78 on May 26, 2026, 12:51:22 PM

I reckon that throttle cable is from a LHD car. It should be much much shorter, almost straight! I've got a new one for my build but I haven't tried fitting it yet as the engine isn't in yet... It may not work with the twin 40's!

Guy

Any chance you can measure the outer for me one day Guy?

Mark

SanRemo78 · « **Reply #492 on:** May 27, 2026, 09:44:05 AM »

Beginning to doubt my sanity now... Not in any of the three boxes it should be in. I need to check my invoices from Mark (if I can find them!) to see if I did indeed buy one.... I can see it in my minds eye but not where it was! Apologies!
Guy

Ferrit · « **Reply #493 on:** May 27, 2026, 10:20:41 PM »

Exhaust manifold shroud off. Bit of a pig and needed a son on the other end of the spanners. Next is try and wrap it. I am not sure how successful this will be. Best bit it my stud is not leaking and everything is spotless around the back of the block.

Old new jets back in and quick tweek of the idle mixture and it runs so nice straight away. Hopefully tomorrow night I will give it a burn and see what the plugs are like.

Ferrit · « **Reply #494 on:** May 29, 2026, 12:28:29 AM »

Sort of wrapped the manifold and downpipe. It looks better in the flesh a bit. I am going to enquire about a custom shroud from Funk, where I bought the wrap from. Another job that dragged on for hours, mostly like fishing for change down the back of the sofa'esk.

Went a for a quick spin and its so much better than before. I am going to write it all down and send an email to the dyno people, quick before and after on the same number 2 plug. Bearing in mind I was only out for 45 minutes.

Headlights next week.

Ferrit · « **Reply #495 on:** June 05, 2026, 08:51:55 PM »

Bust couple of days

Thank you Guy for the cable. Cleaned up and lubed with some cycle teflon lube and popped in. I am getting good at limboing under the dash

Ferrit · « **Reply #496 on:** June 05, 2026, 09:15:59 PM »

Headlights! I have gagging to do this

Mate of Alan refurbed these and I begged him to sell them to me :-)

So my current headlights are floppy loose, clips broken and seem to be mostly sealant. When I removed them I could see what was going on. Previous life bodgers/owners had taken the old units and cut part of the back off the old lights and used a massive amount of sealant. Luckily the sealant I was able to cut through and pull everything apart. The outer rim had been made from a smaller one and joined with wire and some silicon. To be honest the lights were okay it was the base that was the real problem.

I tidied the wiring a little bit. It will be replaced this winter. I will get them aimed correctly at the MOT

New units in now. Question: which light is inset, is it the outer ones (see picture).

Ferrit · « **Reply #497 on:** June 05, 2026, 09:20:11 PM »

more photos

Ferrit · « **Reply #498 on:** June 05, 2026, 09:54:08 PM »

Tracking done'ish. Kwik-Fit guys were amazing, and the first time I have been under the car without having to scramble under. Settings I went in asking for was a couple mm out at the front and similar in at the back. Can anyone figure out what these settings mean for me? They said I can go back if needs be. It drives amazing and I have a straight steering wheel. :-)

They all thought it was a Capri.

Fitted a couple fire extinguisher things underside of the bonnet, to add the the Firestick and powder unit I have in the cabin. Paranoid? Yes!

lancialulu · « **Reply #499 on:** June 05, 2026, 10:10:25 PM »

would have thought the rears should be toe in?

News:

Author Topic: SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe (Read 70794 times)