Starter motor part numbers

[JASPER_40]

Hi Everyone,

I am sure everyone could be yawning out there concerning this post about starter motors again but I am struggling to get a replacement based on the part number stamped on my starter : Bosch 0 001 311 138. (last digit could possibly be a 3 !). Ther same question was asked on this forum but it didnt get answered in the subsequent conversation.

Google, AI and parts suppliers all seem to come up with different part numbers and I was hoping that someone out there has some definitive knowledge of what the part number(s) should be ?

I was going to explore getting mine refurbished as I have this unsubstantiated notion that the innards of this motor could be quite generic and so a refurb could be as simple as changing the rotor and retaining the casing and solenoid etc ?

Dont think I want to go the WOSP route due to the cost, I just need a simple replacement for mine which intermittently just clicks. The bushes are fine but the armature looks very worn)

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Steve

[squiglyzigly]

Are you sure the starter is the problem?
More likely to be the ignition switch or wiring between the two.
Fitting a relay is a common modification.

Ian

[JASPER_40]

Thanks Ian......interesting. Will look into this

Bit of an intermittant problem as when you turn the key, it some  times just clicks and sounds like the solenoid is engaging but the motor doesn't operate. If you turn the key a second or maybe third time then the starter operates as expected. On other occaisions the starter works without any problem.

I have had the starter in bits and the brushes have been renewed at some point and have plenty of brush left and the springs are strong. The only thing I noticed was the wear on the commutator.....which is why I assumed it may just be old and worn out.

If I went the replacement route then I am just confused with the part numbers as many listings of replacement starters are for slightly different part numbers (Last 3 digits seem to vary).


Cheers,

Steve

[WestonE]

My starter motor was transformed by a heavier gauge battery earth cable and better engine to body earthing. Diagnosed by a Rolling Road who swapped some earth cables in from a modern scrap car. Definitely worth trying. Of course this will not fix a worn out starter motor.   

[JASPER_40]

I am gonna try bypassing the ignition switch altogether using my external starter button connected directly across the battery and also a direct earth with a jumper cable to see if this resolves the problem.

Must admit the starter commutator looks worn but maybe not that bad.

I am still wondering if the whole armature can be swapped between similar bosch starters.

Cheers,

Steve

[JohnFol]

This is the part number of my starter motor

00 01311 044

[JASPER_40]

Hi John,

Many thanks for your response. Can you just let me know the specifics about your beta ?

I am curious as to why there appears to be several part numbers for these starters across the Betas.

My starter : Bosch 0001311138 is on a 1982 beta coupe 2.0L carb model (Australian delivered). My starter does have a bracket at the rear of the starter body to fix it to the block. We have discussed this in a previous thread and it could be that this is a mod for the IE and VX that was also carried through to later cars or maybe for the Australian market. Maybe the 2 screw holes in the starter body end cap to attach the bracket to are the reason for the different part number ?

PS, This additional bracket seems to serve no purpose ofther than to help remove the skin from your knuckles when trying to remove / re-fit the starter unit.

Cheers,

Steve

[JohnFol]

Mine is a UK registered car. 1979 series 2 spider

[Nigel]

Steve,
Late to the party, but my AU 1983 HPE (also carb) had a rear mounting bracket. I've seen this
on other Betas but unsure which ones. My serial number is different to yours but
may well have been replaced at some stage in it's life. I agree that it may well be a feature of IE,
as there are many IE spec parts on my car.

I fitted a Hi-Torque unit some 3 years ago, so that bracketry is now redundant.

I think the later AU market cars were built alongside/on the UK line, and simply reconfigured with carbs
as requested by the importers due to poor fuel quality at that time.

As an aside query, is your exhaust manifold to down-pipe connection a 3 stud union?


Nigel

[JASPER_40]

As an aside query, is your exhaust manifold to down-pipe connection a 3 stud union?

Hi Nigel , Yes mine is a 3 stud connection of the manifold to exhaust downpipe

The Aus delivered Beta has quite an eclectic mix of parts which sometimes make sourcing spares difficult. Mine is an Aus delivered 1982 2.0L Coupe with Power steering and factory aircon. The layout and wiring is a bit different to anything you see in workshop manuals....nothing too onerous

Cheers,

Steve

[Nigel]

Thanks Steve, my 83 HPE had the same spec as yours, A/C now deleted.

If I ever need a downpipe it'll have to be fabricated.....no chance of finding one!
But it is definitely a superior joint, built-in flexibility. Very glad I've got it.

Nigel

[JASPER_40]

Wow, what a result.....

I took a gamble and sourced a new starter from Latvia which arrived today. The starter part number is in fact 0 001 311 133. This a 100% identical starter to the one on my car and even came with the support bracket on the back of the unit.

It was really difficult to determine the last digit on the part number on my old starter as the last punched digit could have been a 3 or 8 or even 9. I had a pretty clear view of the starter in-situ but just couldnt say for sure what the last digit was. The last digit on the new starter is just as difficult to read but seeing as I can look much closer , it is definitely a 3.

Hoping this information may help someone in the future.

I was also nervous about ordering this item from eastern Europe and via ebay but this whole transaction could not have been better....very impressed. The FEDEX shipment was only $25 USD for 7kg. How did they do that ?

Cheers

Steve

[peteracs]

Hi Steve

Nice result, now does it solve the problem...?

Peter

[JASPER_40]

Hi Peter,

My old starter was very clearly well worn and the commutator had worn down significantly. The brushes had obviously been replaced in the past as the soldering job was very poor. So to remove any doubt about the integrity or longevity of the starter then I was going to go down the path of a refurb, maybe trying to get a replacement armarure. Alas, I could not find anyone in Perth who could do a refurb

A used starter is a bit of a gamble as it may not be any better than mine and over here, with Australian used parts sources, it is very difficult to understand if you have been quoted a price or a phone number.

So, I am hoping that a brand new starter solves the problem.

Also, when things like this come up for sale the tendancy is to just act impulsively, especially as it was such a bargain. I can always move it on later if not required.

Cheers,

Steve

[JASPER_40]

My starter motor was transformed by a heavier gauge battery earth cable and better engine to body earthing. Diagnosed by a Rolling Road who swapped some earth cables in from a modern scrap car. Definitely worth trying. Of course this will not fix a worn out starter motor.   

Just to close the loop, I did try bypassing the ignition switch using a remote starter trigger across the battery and also with a Heavy duty jump lead as a second earth....Still got the occaisional click from the starter. I would say 1 in ten tries would yield 1 click event ....

Cheers,

Steve