New old Cylinder head

[rossocorsa]

You should definitely speak to Darren Cooksey at Monte Servicing and Repair about the price for a Cometic MLS Gasket. There is no resin to decay and you can re-use them. Interesting that Spesso will not support their gasket used on a VX. FL had so many head gasket fails with the VX they introduced these full resin bond gaskets. Neil's experience shows the scary reality of finding one fit to use.

They do (or did) a different one for the VX

[Ferrit]

You should definitely speak to Darren Cooksey at Monte Servicing and Repair about the price for a Cometic MLS Gasket. There is no resin to decay and you can re-use them. Interesting that Spesso will not support their gasket used on a VX. FL had so many head gasket fails with the VX they introduced these full resin bond gaskets. Neil's experience shows the scary reality of finding one fit to use.

Called him.  Darren thinks just get a good quality one and he wouldnt suggest a MLS one for my std engine.  News from the engineers, baring one thread the head is in almost perfect shape

[Ferrit]

So guide and valves now with the engineering co, ordered new springs from Eurosport.  Valve stem seals...

Darren Cooksie mentioned that Delta HF Turbo stem seals are better.  I called Tanc Barret and left a list with Neil on Monday but so far no news.  I thought I would investigate this myself and maybe just order these items and get to the engineers

Valve stem oil seal - Part No: 7553637; seems to be the same for all the performance 8v Delta's and are 8mm the same as my valves ordered.  Any thoughts or comments while I am waiting for more news?

https://www.deltaintegrale.com/shop/delta-integrale-8v-engine-components/7553637

Mark

[Ics19]

Assuming they are FPM type, then those seals were also stock for the Uno Turbo back in the day, but equally compatible with any SOHC and DOHC 8mm valve, more here:
https://www.eurosport-uk.net/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=51_64&products_id=763

[Ferrit]

I have just read the same somewhere!  Brilliant I will order those then.

Thank you.

[Ferrit]

So head should be done in the next 10 days with new valves and guides.  Now camshafts...  Trying to figure out what is difference between all the engines std cams?  So Avanti are selling these and they say they are the same - https://ebay.us/m/vnJrxx

In my Tech Manual it says this, any thoughts will be appreciated.

Mark

[WestonE]

Guy Crofts books go into detail on this and Brian Long's Beta Book has a section at the back that is helpful. Your technical book is a great item, but published late on and partial. Later 2000 and 2000 IE cams are the sound choice but 2000 IE have a peg drive needing a different cam box. Avoid VX cam shafts because they are lower lift and duration. US cams might also have been detuned, but I would have to check through the books. It is hard to tell the condition of those ebay Cams. In all cases measure each cam lobe to base with a vernier looking out for worn lobes. This shows as a misfire in a running engine. Clean the lobes top to bottom with scotch bright and brake cleaner. Pitting will trash your bucket shims so avoid cams with this kind of rust damage. 

[Ferrit]

Evening.  Head is ready for collection, so aim to get it on Monday.  Something struck me tonight, how do you tell which are exhaust v inlet cams?  Its been such a long time since I did this 

I have a pile of used cams now.  We think I have 1x 1600, 2x 2000 and 2x 130tc.  I am getting them checked over on Monday when I collect the head.  I am not sure whether I can or should run the 130's.  I have searched and searched for information.  Any thoughts would be appresiated.

Mark

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

When I checked the cams I sent you, the pin which locates the cam wheel is oriented slightly different on exhaust v inlet, that was the only way I could tell. So on the ones I sent 2 will be exhaust, one will be inlet.

Peter

[Ferrit]

That helps, thanks Peter.  I will get them out again today

[WestonE]

Use the 130TC cams if they are in good condition, but factor in a rolling road carb calibration. NB you would probably want to do this anyway with your new head as it has bigger valves and ports. Read GCs workshop manual on timing cams to the cam boxes and follow it with the right marks on the cams and interior cam boxes to ensure your cam wheel markers work at TDC. If not get vernier wheels

Accurate TDC and Accurate cam timing gives real power and stops you banging valves into each other or the pistons. You will not need a dry build with 130TC cams if you put them in the correct place. You would with long duration cams like GCs 3A cams. With standard pistons you would only ever go with a 3A on the inlet side to prevent he power band and rev range being to high. 130TC cams have higher lift without long duration making them great for supercharged cars like the VX and inlet side on 8V Integrale.   

[Ferrit]

Thats really good news Eric, thank you.

I was always planning to take to L&M as soon as it was roadworthy.   I think it was the only place I could find near that that could help