window glass seal and motor query

[deks]

Easy one first with Electric windows should they be permanently live? Hand when you've taken the keys out but forgot to close the window but I am of the opinion these have been retro fitted and live not taken from the right place but we shall see what comments come back before I look to rewire them. The switches are either side of gear lever as well.


next issue is the seal on the door glass on the outside is not attached to anything and lifts out when glass rises. I've taken it out and the chrome trim on outside but cannot see how to fix it there appears to be no clips of any description but there is residue of glue, this is the same on both doors

[SanRemo78]

Windows should be live when the ignition is on only Steve. Not permanently. That needs addressing at some point. They won't be consuming power though.

The rubbing strips are spot welded to the outer trim. I wouldn't recommend removing the strip on top of the door as that entails removing the drop glass to get the quart light out too. Whilst you're working on the window motor it's only two bolts holding the glass to the mechanism and undoing those will allow you to drop the glass fully into the door. Mask off the outer strip, Sikaflex the detached strip with the window felt and put it back in place with a few Bulldog clips to hold it whilst the Sikafex cures. Wipe any excess off before it cures though.

Guy

[deks]

Windows should be live when the ignition is on only Steve. Not permanently. That needs addressing at some point. They won't be consuming power though.

The rubbing strips are spot welded to the outer trim. I wouldn't recommend removing the strip on top of the door as that entails removing the drop glass to get the quart light out too. Whilst you're working on the window motor it's only two bolts holding the glass to the mechanism and undoing those will allow you to drop the glass fully into the door. Mask off the outer strip, Sikaflex the detached strip with the window felt and put it back in place with a few Bulldog clips to hold it whilst the Sikafex cures. Wipe any excess off before it cures though.

Guy

Hi Guy, thanks for advice. Sikkaflex was going to be my go to option..  the power supply should be easy to address assuming i can find a switched live on the ignition barrel. I need to change the barrel as well as it had ignition issues and has had a bypass switch fitted that is a recommended modification to feed the power apparently but Id like to get it back to how it should be.

[kbetas]

I had some gorrila glue and used that which worked well. My rubber strips were attached to the metal part but the metal part wasnt attached to the door so i used the gorilla glue to attach metal to metal. I used some plastic trim removal tools to force it away from the glass while the glue was setting.  As an aside i was missing the interior version on the drivers door and it was surprising how noisy the car was. It annoyed me enough that i took the one from the passenger side and it really reduced the noise in the car on the drivers side. I just need to acquire another to keep any passengers happy!.

Ref the electric windows. I have one fuse that runs the electric windows, heater fan, clock and cigarette lighter. I was having trouble with them cutting out occasionally or the electric windows running slowly. I suspected an old wiring / voltage issue but traced it to a loose / bad connection in the fuse box. I tightened up the connectors either side of fuse and everythings been good since (fingers crossed).