Inner CV Joint Removal

[capriblu]

Noticed a slight knocking noise coming from front left of car a couple of days ago.  This has developed over the weekend and manifests itself as a light consistent knock primarily on deceleration and disappears when clutch is dipped.  I'm 90% certain this is a failing inner CV joint so have a new item on order and will look to replace over next couple of days.

I'm planning on being able to do this without having to undo the hub.  How easy is this to do ?   Any tips regarding procedure etc .. ?

Thanks,

Andrew

[SanRemo78]

It's a simple enough mechanical procedure but access is tight and is best done with the shaft on the bench. There are six Allen headed bolts on the inner CV with three locking tabs behind. Initially you can release the bolts as there is a step in the flange stopping the nuts rotating but you'll need a spanned eventually. If you can remove the staked outer CV nut the shaft can be removed easily enough. I'd recommend this route as, with the shaft on the bench, it's a simple job to clean it and replace the outer boot too, cleaning old grease out is a messy task but doing it and replacing with new should be a routine service job every 5-10 years!. The inner CV is held on with a simple circlip which will be covered in grease! If you're doing this job yourself please ensure that the car is safely supported on axle stands before getting underneath it.
Guy

[capriblu]

Thanks for this - Just not sure how easily I'll be able to undo the hub nut with just a 1/2" breaker rather than a decent impact wrench.  I'll have a go !

[peteracs]

Hi Andrew

The alternative is maybe a little less painful, remove the whole hub...... you will need to disconnect the track rod ball joint probably anyway, so that would just leave the lower ball joint. As you say removing the hub nut without an impact is non trivial often and sometimes with an impact it is difficult. I originally made a simple angle iron bar to bolt to the hub to stop the hub rotating and hence not put strain on the diff, also useful when assembling and tightening the nut.

Peter

[capriblu]

Thanks Peter - was thinking along those lines if hub nut proves difficult to budge (which I expect it will).  Presumably this would just provide the necessary mobility and movement of the shaft to allow the inner bearing to be removed and replaced, i.e. not complete removal of the hub/carrier?

[peteracs]

Hi

I was thinking of removing the whole hub from the car. Once you have detached the caliper and removed the disk, then it is just two ball joints and the two strut bolts.

Much easier to work on the bench.

Peter

[Neil-yaj396]

Just a suggestion, but could it be a wheel bearing rather than the CV joint?

I had a really bad 'hum' last year that disappeared with the clutch disengaged and it was a failing bearing.

[capriblu]

Thanks again Peter - that makes sense and should be (famous last words) straightforward.  The suspension was apart quite recently for re-bushing, so hopefully ball joints etc. will come apart quite easily.

Hi Neil, thanks for suggestion but not a bearing - its a mechanical loud tapping speed related noise almosting clunk that occurs when decelerating and in drive.  I'm 99% certain its coming from inner CV joint.  Just manually grabbing driveshaft on nearside and moving back and forth there is a lot of slop.  The offside is not great but doesnt feel quite as loose as the nearside.  If I can get inner CV joint replaced quickly and painlessly I can plan to replace all joints this winter.

[WestonE]

On Montes we have a spate of loose output flanges on the gear box that give the symptom you describe so worth checking the flange nut is actually done up not simply staked still loose!. Obviously only 1 flange on most Betas.