Author Topic: Testing ignition pickup…  (Read 110 times)

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Offline Ryan

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Testing ignition pickup…
« on: August 07, 2026, 02:32:11 AM »
Does anyone know how to test the ignition pick up inside the distributor?  I’m chasing a no spark issue on my 1982 Zagato with the plex ignition.

I have already tested the coil with the multimeter and it checked out.  I’m getting power to the coil and I changed out the ignition control module.. still no luck.  I’m thinking the pick up may be bad.  I think if I put a meter on the pick up leads and crank it should have AC voltage of some sort coming out. 

Any tips would be greatly appreciated

Offline Ics19

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Re: Testing ignition pickup…
« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2026, 12:51:35 PM »
The initial test would be to check the resistance of the pickup, unplug it from the module and use a multimeter at the connector - you're looking for 750-850 ohms but it can vary slightly with make.  Have you changed the pickup recently?  The gap between pickup and spindle lobes which should be 0.3-0.4mm. This effects the signal amplitude and smaller gap means big amplitude which is better. You must also make sure the magnetic strip under the pickup is the correct way up for the pickup make - typically the magnets are marked with a paint stripe and it's stripe upwards, but this is not always the case. If the magnet is upside down the signal generated is inverted which is not good.  The signal generated when working is much like the trace in the picture. The amplitude varies with rpm and can easily be 20v p-p at higher rpm. You can check the pickup off the car if you have an oscilloscope (handheld digital one are available these days, but still a different price league to multimeters). If you move a screwdriver across the end of the pickup (without touching it), the pickup will generate a single signal high/low. The amplitude will be low ~0.5v p-p, but the positive/negative transition should be correct.

EDIT - I've not used a multimeter on the pickup when cranking - IIRC at 1k rpm running, the pickup is about 6-8v p-p, so at a guess you may see 1-2v on a multimeter reading AC RMS as the signal is not a true sine wave.  If I think about, I'll try it next time I'm out in garage as could be useful if ever stuck by roadside!
« Last Edit: August 07, 2026, 01:32:57 PM by Ics19 »

Offline Ryan

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Re: Testing ignition pickup…
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2026, 08:33:57 PM »
Thank you for the detailed response.  I got the ignition back online late last night by swapping the ignition control module I put in the other day with a new one.  Thankfully it’s a GM 4 pin hei module that practically any parts store has (at least around here).

Now off to sort the shift bushings.

Offline Nigel

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Re: Testing ignition pickup…
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2026, 10:23:05 PM »
That's interesting Ryan.

I've got a file stored that explains how to insert a modern solid-state GM ignition module
inside a standard Beta Bosch housing. It's probably the same part and seems to
be readily available here in the uk.

Nigel
1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]

Offline Ryan

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Re: Testing ignition pickup…
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2026, 02:49:37 AM »
So, the UK market got bosch ignition?  The North American fuel injected betas got Marelli Plex ignition with cam mounted distributor.  The ignition control on mine is a big heatsink on a bracket that mounts near the left strut in the engine bay.  Interestingly, when you remove it and turn it around, you'll be greeted with a GM hei complete with GM markings.  Maybe this is what Lancia got from GM for reverse engineering the suspension for the Chevrolet Citation lol.

Ive also found Ford stamped emissions components in the engine bay of my Yugo.

Offline Ics19

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Re: Testing ignition pickup…
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2026, 10:03:48 AM »
I've got a file stored that explains how to insert a modern solid-state GM ignition module
inside a standard Beta Bosch housing.

This is popular with the US X1/9 owners where the Bosch setup was standard fitment predominantly for the fuel injected engines.  However, there's been some feedback on the Xweb site that the original heatsink case of the discrete Bosch module is insufficient for HEI module use, something that Marelli realised with their neat heatsink/module/coil pack:

https://www.midwest-bayless.com/LANCIA-BETA-0_p-10010-4386220-9938064-oe-ignition-coil-assembly-for-plex-201-fiat-124-spider-131brava-lancia-oe-marelli-nos.aspx

If you change to a HEI module, then ideally you also need a matching low impedance coil rather than say the Bosch red type, as again there's been reports of problems at high rpm. This setup is fundamentally what the Montecarlo S2 uses (albeit with Marelli pickup) and is also used for each bank of some niche market Ferrari 308s.  The original GM modules (and Marelli branded versions) seem quite good at switching a high current through the coil across the rev range for a consistent high spark output using optimum dwell, whilst some aftermarket modules not so great- there's been numerous problems with a 2nd gen Hella module mis-triggering when previous versions were ok.
« Last Edit: August 08, 2026, 10:33:31 AM by Ics19 »