Spyder restoration - long time coming

[GerardJPC]

That might perhaps be a cost saving measure in 1300s, Neil.  I will dig out my brochures but think that door inserts to match the seats were possibly a thing in 1600s.

[GerardJPC]

Early Spiders/Spyders all had the caramel vinyl seats IIRC - presumably to resist damage if caught topless in a shower (er...).   My late Spider had black vinyl seats.

[Neil-yaj396]

That might perhaps be a cost saving measure in 1300s, Neil.  I will dig out my brochures but think that door inserts to match the seats were possibly a thing in 1600s.

Maybe, but I bought the cards separately, so unlikely to have come off a 1300.

[peteracs]

Hi

I think Gerard is correct, vaguely Remember it on the early HPE I had, I will check the parts book later as they will be listed there.

Peter

[frankxhv773t]

My 1978 1600 coupe had seat fabric on the door cards as did an S Reg 1300 coupe I broke for spares. My 1977 1600 Spider has vinyl on the door cards to match the seats. The implication is that all the trim should match. I hope that may help.

[peteracs]

A bit of a frustrating day today. Started to bleed the brakes and found that I could not get any fluid through to front brakes which are on a separate circuit to the back ones. The other circuit had fluid in from me adding fluid to the master cylinder a few weeks ago. After disconnecting pipes, turns out the master cycling I had refurbished several years ago was not in a great state and the front plunger was stuck. So decided to buy a new one as could not face rebuilding it again and having a problem after that. I am hoping the servo is ok as now way I can test at present.

I also have had difficulty getting the engine to idle once the auto choke comes off, anything below about 2000 rpm and it stalls pretty quickly. I am assuming it relates to the idle screw setting/dirt etc. I had cleaned the carb and fitted a refurb kit, again a few years ago. I removed the carb and tried to check the float level, but there does not seem to be a measurement for it so have to assume it is not too critical. I also cleaned out the idle jet, but so far nothing has made a difference. I am aiming to install the AEM sensor in the exhaust tomorrow to see what the fuel/air ratio is and see if that gives me a clue.

One thing which did go ok today was checking the timing. My old timing lamp dates from the Ancient past and does not give a good solid position, more a blur, so I bought a Powerspark TL100, basic timing light. This produces a precise flash which shows the timing superbly and I was able to get it setup the best I can given the poor idle.

Peter

[Neil-yaj396]

Peter

My first 1300 would not idle well until fully warmed up. If I hit traffic I'd use the hand throttle to stop it stalling. Once warm it was OK and if you messed with it you ended up with a very high warm idle (1800 rpm).

My current car idles OK when cold, but does idle on the high side when warm.

I do wonder if there simply isn't enough adjustment in the carbs to cover the full temperature range. I had several cars in the 80's where you were messing with the choke until warm and some drivers removed automatic chokes so that they could do this. We are spoilt by modern fuel injection!

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

A Gunsons Colour Tune is your friend for fixing the idle mixture. Old school tech that works remarkably well because you can literally see what is going on. For twin carb set ups 2 of them help to see issues in balance and by cylinder.

Not for FI though where a lambda sensor in each exhaust primary is better. I have these ports in my Montecarlo exhaust.
 
FYI On turbo setups K type heat sensors in each primary get used.

Eric

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

As it happens I have a colour tune, last used many many moons ago and did not realise I would be in need of it. It will be interesting to see what that and the exhaust sensor give.

I do suspect the carb may need a good soaking or Ultrasound cleaning however.

Thanks

Peter

[peteracs]

Not a lot to report recently as a refurb of the Utility room which was always planned for the end of Jan has taken priority, hopefully near the end of fitting the units and sink now.

I have received the new master cylinder and yesterday picked up the re-chromed wheel bolts which although a bit expensive £5 + vat each, the result is very pleasing and allows me to reuse the originals rather than buying new ones.

Peter  

[WestonE]

Satisfyingly Shinny!

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

Yes, and hopefully fairly tolerant to the wheel brace....

Peter

[capriblu]

Were they post plating de-embrittled?

Always scares me when I see wheel studs going anywhere near pickling or electroplating processes!

[peteracs]

Were they post plating de-embrittled?

Always scares me when I see wheel studs going anywhere near pickling or electroplating processes!

Hi

I have no idea what that means, please enlighten me and I will ask the question...!

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Hmm, well the answer is no, and having read up about it, not sure where to go with them now as de embrittling appears to not be a 100% effective anyway. Wish I was aware of this issue before sending them off....

Peter

[capriblu]

Peter - didn't want to scare and I'm sure they will be absolutely fine, but I would just be aware.

Regarding the de-embrittling process then yes technically not 100% effective and ideally should be done straight after process but I'm sure if still relatively fresh (a couple of days) then an hour in your kitchen oven at max temperature (200+) would be 80% effective  - perhaps just try one to check for no discoloration/tarnishing but should be fine if clean and not too hot.

Whilst the advent of the web provides ample research material for the emergence of an army of armchair expert doomsters on all these things then on this subject I do, unfortunately have professional experience and involvement (albeit 25 years ago) of a similar issue affecting failure of wheel studs en-masse on assembly and within first 10 miles of road use on a well known premium brand UK manufactured vehicle.  

[peteracs]

Hi

Thanks, I will give it a go and I will keep my figures crossed. I was aiming to add some locking wheel nuts at some point, so hopefully that will go some way to helping out should any fail on me.

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

This is why the 12.9 grade bolts on TC engines (cam and flywheel bolts for example) must only be chemically blacked not Gold Passivated/ Yellow Zinc plated. Paul Courtney of the Monte Consortium was shocked to watch GC throw away his freshly plated high tensile bolts.

Most wheel bolts/studs are typically 10.9 grade, so stronger than the common 8.8 grade but not as brittle as higher tensile 12.9 bolts i.e. less likely to fail dramatically.

BTW there are some shocking Chinese chrome wheel bolts out there that carry no rating and barely make the 4.4 standard AKA as chocolate bolts.

You are not racing and the car is light with light wheels, with the oven treatment I think you will be fine.

Eric   

[mangocrazy]

I had a similar experience when visiting Guy. He took one look at the 12.9 cam wheel bolts that I'd had electroless nickel plated and threw them in the bin.  He allowed me to keep the 8.8 bolts. Can't remember if there were any 10.9 bolts in the box. But if the bolts had originally been chrome plated and you were merely renewing the plating, wouldn't that indicate that all was OK?

[peteracs]

Hi Graham

I understand from reading that the problem is due to the process, so a second time round would still introduce the hydrogen into the bolts which is the problem.

Peter