Spyder restoration - long time coming

[WestonE]

For performance Inlet 0.40 exhaust 0.45 should be the target with a standard engine. These clearances are huge compared to modern engines and modern cams. Tighter clearances have the valves open for longer. To play with things like this you need a head off engine and dummy belt/tensioner rig to study open close points potential valve clash etc. I am not recommending halving clearances (what you see with aftermarket cams) with Standard cams. I just wanted to provide some insight into what small clearances mean. Note valves that do not close enough equals compression loss and mixture blown down the exhaust pipe.

Eric 

[peteracs]

I ordered the two shims from Eurosport yesterday afternoon and amazingly they arrived in the post today. Well impressed with their response to the order. I was also a bit concerned about if I have measured correctly, but need not have worried as they measure as expected. Next up putting them in the engine.

Peter

[peteracs]

The two new shims plus moving one of the existing shims finished the job. A fair difference, the engine now idles much more evenly and is a lot smoother and revs more freely, so very happy camper with the result of what was a fair amount of time and effort.

Next job is trying to improve the backlight on the display which I think is due to the led bulbs I used being mainly having the light facing forward. I have bought some alternative ones where the light goes sideways, so will see if that improves the situation.

[peteracs]

One thing which has bugged me after installing led console illumination lights was how poor they were for the speedo and tacho. I guessed this was because the bulbs I used mainly shine forwards and not sideways. So I purchased some different ones and finally managed to install them today. Result is a much brighter display than before. The bulbs I used originally (round with white base) and the replacement (yellow colour led facing sideways). I did have to trim the new bulbs slightly as they were a little too wide to fully seat in the socket, but this was a 2 second job with the bench grinding wheel.

Peter

[peteracs]

Out for the last time this winter (I suspect) the other day. Car has now done around 1000 miles since back on the road and the recent valve gapping changes have resulted in a most enjoyable drive where the car is happy to cruise at 60-70 mph and general acceleration is improved. I shall be running the engine and pulling it out of the garage during the winter just to exercise the brakes etc and move the tyres.

[peteracs]

Hi

Car has been out recently for general run around and also to local charity show called the Greetham Gathering which is just 30 mins from us. A very pleasant warm evening with 100 ish cars/bikes/lorries there.

I had two jobs outstanding from last year, the first was the sweep of the wipers was not 100%, so out came the wiper assembly and compared it to the one off the HPE. The solution was pretty obvious in that there is a small bar from the motor assembly which in parked position should line up with the longer bar attached to the spindle mechanism. This was not quite lined up on the Spider’s assembly and hence why I was not getting the full sweep. Simple job to loosen and align then retighten.

The second job was to remove the rack and replace the bush which apparently disintegrates. This was noted on the MOT I had last year as something to resolve. I am hopeful this bush is the solution to the problem. I am aiming to remove the rack as soon as the HPE goes off to the bodywork guy over the next two weeks hopefully.

Peter

[WestonE]

Montecarlo and X19 Racks also have that brittle bush leading to sudden drastic play.

[peteracs]

Hi Eric

It will be interesting to see what difference it makes as the steering is actually pretty positive, but when the guy put the car on the ramp and moved the wheel you could see one of the arms at the centre point move away from the centre line, but it does not appear to affect the wheel direction as such.

We will see what I find when I take the rack out.

Peter

[Neil-yaj396]

Hi Eric

It will be interesting to see what difference it makes as the steering is actually pretty positive, but when the guy put the car on the ramp and moved the wheel you could see one of the arms at the centre point move away from the centre line, but it does not appear to affect the wheel direction as such.

We will see what I find when I take the rack out.

Peter

Hi Peter. I'd be interested in a blow by blow account of the rack coming out and back in with the engine in situ. My gaiter is tatty and I have a replacement. but thought it was an engine out job.

Neil

[squiglyzigly]

The rack gaitor can be done in situ, the bush cannot.
Taking the rack out can be done with the engine in place but I can’t remember if you have to remove the exhaust manifold or just the down pipe. 

Ian

[peteracs]

Hi Ian

I will let you know, but way back when I stripped out and replaced the rack the engine was in situ, but no down pipe and that will most likely be the test as I have wrapped the manifold and down pipe as one and installed the screening panel for the rack gaiter.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Well in answer I managed to get the rack out without removing anything other than the rubber boot on the gearbox side of the car. In order to get it over the manifold I had to take out the bolt which holds the steering damper, but did not need to remove the damper, this gave enough room to move the rack upwards and rotate so the spigot to the column clears the bulkhead. All a bit fiddly and reinstalling was quicker than removing oddly. The rack came out the gearbox side, could not see how to get it out the other way.

As suspected the bush had disintegrated, photo of the parts of it I found. I have replaced with one of Mark’s Poly bushes which fitted nicely once the rack had been cleaned of the debris….

Now just need to re track.

As to replacing the gaiter in situ, I do not see how given that there is oil in the rack and it needs to be replaced?

Also I would not fancy fighting with all the pipes down the back of the engine etc. The whole job took me around 4/5 hours or so I guess including cleaning.

Peter

[Nigel]

Peter, hi,
Re replacing the gaitor in-situ:

Once it's in place and bolts and spacers refitted, I used to raise the left side
as high as possible, then fill with gear oil to the
given amount [200cc] before replacing the rubber end cap.


Regards, Nigel

[peteracs]

Hi Nigel

Ok, I understand, but still would not like to have to do it….

Thanks

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Retracked the front wheels which has now also put the wheel square. I think I can tell a difference with the bush replaced but not a big change.

Also had a few drops of oil from the end cap on the rack over the last 5 weeks whilst stood so have tightened the clips, hopefully will solve the problem. There was plenty of oil in it so should not be an issue.

One thing which I have known about for ages is the heater on/off valve does not fully seal. Should have checked before installing. Going to see how hard it is to remove in situ…

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi

Attended the LMC National weekend on Sunday.  A bit of drama on the way down there with persistent fuel starvation which got worse as I approached Coventry, leading to being stranded in a layby at the end of the M69.

A quick look under the bonnet showed the fuel filter from the tank looked fine from above, but well covered in crud underneath. I have one from the tank and another after the mechanical pump. Removing the one from the tank, the car fired up and ran sweetly all the way to and from the meeting at Leamington. A replacement for the tank filter now fitted, but ultimately will have to see how I go about sorting the tank, maybe yet a n other new tank is required (I have one ready for the HPE), though that will have to wait as I do not have the time to sort it out this summer due to other commitments.

I will be keeping a stock of filters in the car in case……

Peter

[peteracs]

I almost forgot, one other oddity which happened and had done once before was with the servo, if anyone has an idea what is causing this I would like to know.

Leaving home all was well with the servo/brake pedal feel. After stopping in Leamington for a coffee with Nigel, we set off for the LMC hotel and the brakes were rock hard, ie no servo for approx 1/4 mile, after that it started to work. A similar event happened when leaving the LMC that afternoon.

The pipe work was new, so suspect either the valve or the servo, but once it starts working it works flawlessly from then on for many miles, so maybe the valve is sticking open/closed?

One other issue which is something I completely overlooked was the clutch pedal adjustment. I thought I had correctly adjusted the clutch cable originally and the clutch worked just fine, ie no crunching gears etc, but the pedal had a habit of not returning fully. I reread Haynes and realised that the adjustment of the cable was way too loose (should be 3-5mm of gap) and after adjusting it the pedal returned properly and I also needed to adjust the pedal stop as the pedal was coming up a fair bit further than the brake pedal. All in all a much more satisfying driving experience.

Peter

[squiglyzigly]

Hi Peter,
I can help with the servo/pedal feel problem.
It is the non return valve in the vacuum servo pipe. My Berlina done exactly the same as you describe shortly after going back on the road.
I tried cleaning it, but it didn’t improve.
luckily I had a nos spare which cured the problem completely.
Brake servo assistance works first time every time now.

Cheers
Ian

[peteracs]

Hi Ian

Thanks I will get it changed as simple job!

Peter

[WestonE]

Hi Peter

Car Builder Solutions Stock a variety of New options

I wish I was driving mine not shipping it into storage!

Eric