Author Topic: Spyder restoration - long time coming  (Read 203450 times)

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Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #540 on: June 18, 2025, 08:41:32 AM »
One last point from my trip to Laon was I arrived home late, around 1:45am on the Monday, which meant most of my drive home in the dark. The new Ring bulbs I bought for the dipped headlights (still standard wattage) were excellent and give a nice white light similar to modern to cars rather than the old yellowish ones. So very happy with the change.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline Ferrit

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #541 on: June 18, 2025, 12:20:57 PM »
Geeze just looking through your last few posts has added a couple more items to my 'must do' list.  Gear linkage and headlights.  Really useful tips and information as always.

Mark
Lancia Beta Coupe 2000 SA import, now project
VW Caravelle t5.1 was project
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Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #542 on: June 18, 2025, 12:37:06 PM »
Hi Mark

On the gear linkage, depends if this has been done already, usually easy to spot if the balls and bushes in the rods look crap and there is any play, then you should replace them. Not the simplest of jobs in situ, but doable with patience and makes it a much more enjoyable experience. Worst case with old worn out bushes is not being able to get fist, second or fifth.

There is also the small link rod at the front attached to the bell housing which can be worn out, but not so critical unless the bushes have completely gone.

You can get parts from Mark for the main rod bushes and the small link rod. See

https://353652584127257704.weebly.com/store/c15/Transmission.html


Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #543 on: June 18, 2025, 02:14:03 PM »
Test drive completed and now have a decent positive gear changes, probably the best I have had since putting the car on the road. Time will tell if it beds in and becomes less so, but hopefully will stay as enjoyable as it is now.

Also no further oil appearing near the sensor, so hopefully that is fixed, just need to do a bit of a clean up around that area as a reasonable casting of oil on the block etc.

Next job wash and hoover before Sunday.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #544 on: July 01, 2025, 03:31:52 PM »
Hi

Having missed out on the LMC Sunday sadly, I decided to see if I can improve the lumpy idle. So off came the carb and out came the compressor. The thought was that it is running lean on idle, but not during normal driving, so the assumption was that there was some sort of limit to fuel getting to the idle jet. I could unscrew the idle adjuster out without it really getting too rich it appeared. So some time using the air pressure to try to blow out all the jets just for good measure. After that reassemble. During this phase I decided to check that when I floor the accelerator it actually opened the second choke butterfly fully, result was it only half opened it, so a bit of adjustment and that was sorted. Not the end of the world, but nice to have it doing what it should. After a test drive the idle is better (I think, very subjective), so leaving it as is for now.

No other jobs planned and the car is booked for its bi annual MOT on Friday.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #545 on: July 04, 2025, 09:06:07 AM »
First in the door at the MOT test place. All passed no advisories. Only comment was that the front caliper sliders probably need removing and cleaning/lubricating as there was a little too much resistance in his view. So easy job which I will get done over the next few days. I had previously done the rear ones earlier in the year, but the fronts had not been done since before I put the car back on the road in 2020/21.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline HFStuart

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #546 on: July 04, 2025, 08:22:18 PM »
Excellent news. MOTs may not be necessary any more but it's a great opportunity for a second set of eyes to give it a look over.

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #547 on: July 04, 2025, 11:18:57 PM »
That has always been my thought. I also had replaced the dipped beam headlight bulbs where I had to adjust them to get the cap off the back and as part of the test he checked I had set them up correctly.

I had the opportunity this afternoon to take off the front calipers to clean the sliding parts. The lower sliders/inserts were still ok, but the top were quite dry and in need of a clean. However when I looked inside the piston I noticed a small amount of oil in both of the calipers. This had come from the small hole in the base of the piston. It is there to provide air to equalise the pressure if the rear mixed circuit fails and the piston moves relative to the rear mixed actuator. There should not be any oil in the chamber. The brakes still work fine, no binding, but the calipers will need to be stripped and new seals fitted. This is not a trivial undertaking as will take a reasonable amount of time to effect the new seals. So a job for the future....

Peter

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #548 on: November 03, 2025, 03:47:19 PM »
Hi

The Spider has been hibernating since August. Apart from playing with the intermittent wiper design, I had two jobs to do, one was reseal the front calipers as mentioned above, that will be early next year just before I start using the car again, the other was the drivers seat. I had noticed earlier this year that there was a wire which had become dislodged in the seat base and was pressing up on the leather. It would eventually work its way through and make a hole, so took the seat out and took off the springs underneath and just managed to grab the offending wire and bend it so that it was well out the way. The wire was fastened into the seat base support, so could not be removed, but the end is now well out of harms way. Seat restored to the car and took the opportunity to fire it up, which after several weeks was very painless and a bit of movement to change the tyre position and that was it until the next visit.

Peter
« Last Edit: April 25, 2026, 10:33:55 PM by peteracs »
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Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #549 on: April 25, 2026, 10:52:03 PM »
Been a while since I posted on the Spider, it has been dry stored over winter with the occasional engine start and wheel movement. So with the forecast these few days being warm and dry, I decided to take the plunge and strip the front calipers and reseal them in an effort to resolve the leakage from the piston breather hole. This was one of those jobs I had been putting off for ages because I know the front ones are a bit of pig with the two piston design, specifically the central retaining clip and separator, the first being a pain to get out of its groove and the latter often a pain to force it out. My method for the circular clip is using various dentist tools through the fluid inlet hole to get it started and then using other dentist tools to get it fully out of its groove. This part went okish, the real pain was the metal disk separater which on one of the calipers needed the housing warming before it would budge. To get them out I use compressed air introduced into the fluid inlet, initially in the front one to get the piston out, then in the rear to force the rear pistons and at the same time the separator. The separator took several goes of pushing the rear piston back and applying the compressed air to free it.

Eventually both were rebuilt, though the central separator never seems to seat fully even with significant pressure due to the sealing ring I guess. Time will tell if I have solved the problem. I took yen opportunity to refresh the brake fluid to the rear calipers as well as I had to bleed all round to finish the job. I had previously sucked out all the fluid in the reservoir. The brakes on a quick test feel ok, though will probably have another run through of bleeding when more dot 4 arrives as I only had a litre bottle.

After this I did the annual oil and filter change, so the car is all fit for going out, but will now be put away until June as hopefully off to France in May.
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
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Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #550 on: May 01, 2026, 10:44:50 PM »
As the weather has been so kind, I decided to keep the car a couple of days extra before putting it away in store. I took the opportunity to finally fit the variable speed intermittent wiper relay and to correct a wiring error I made on the wiring isolation relays for the wiper I had fitted last year. As usual all did not go as planned, but thankfully only one hiccup.

The isolation relay change was to the blue/white wire which I had previously assumed delivered +12V when it actually is a ground to stop the wipers, so the relay wiring was changed to suit this, all pretty straight forward. Then on to the new intermittent relay which has a 500k potentiometer. On the pre facelift brown dash next to the knob which allows the accelerator revs to be increased there is a small square cutout which is a perfect fit for a small knob or switch. This was where the hiccup occurred as the potentiometer I had used had too short a threaded section to allow it to poke through the hole with some required packing washers and to get the nut on toi it. A quick Google led to a guitar accessory seller and a long threaded pot which arrived promptly and now it all installed and working. I have left the old relay in place just in case.... (for now) until I have confidence in the new one.

Whilst messing with the wipers I noticed the rubber for one of the wiper arms had split which was a surprise as only 5 years old. I ordered some new rubbers which should be here next week.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #551 on: July 01, 2026, 10:56:45 PM »
Back from France and after last weeks silly temps, I have now re taxed and insured the car, so picked it up from its storage to get it all checked for the summer.

I thought my first job was going to re bleed the brakes after redoing the front calipers, but after driving it I decided there was absolutely no need to as they seem to function as expected.

Topped up the coolant, oil is normal as expected after just changing it before we went away. Only real job was to top up the tyre pressure to 28psi, most were around 26. I also had the replacement rubbers for the wipers which needed replacing, so that was ticked off. All in all very little to do.

The only other job I had in mind was a small modification to the wiring. When I installed the instrument cluster and replaced all the bulbs for led, the brightness pot assembly was replaced with a more suitable value one, which meant I lost the ability to press the knob and test the light on the dash for the low brake fluid/brake pad wear indicator. I had a spare switch on the centre console which I wired to fulfil this function. I had also installed a switch on the relay for the radiator fan to allow it to be activated manually, but this switch is under the bonnet next to the relay. I never really liked this switch solution as I could not control it from the cabin. So thinking it through I decided to take a wire from the top of the brake reservoir sensor (pink/black) and wired it through a diode and the existing switch to the relay. This is the circuit which attaches to the instrument light and the switch in the centre console. So I can manually activate the fan in the cabin with the light showing it is manually activated. The switch under the bonnet allows me to isolate it and the diode prevents the light illuminating when the radiator switch activates the fan.

Long winded explanation, but hope it helps someone else.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline Ferrit

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #552 on: July 02, 2026, 02:28:20 PM »
28psi, is this front and back on what size tyres?
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Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #554 on: July 15, 2026, 10:24:17 PM »
Hi

Sorry, this is long.....

A long time ago I bought what I thought would be a useful AEM air fuel ratio kit (called X WiFi kit). Unlike most normal AFR kits with a dial and sensor this was a black box and a sensor for the exhaust and you attached to the box via a phone or IPad etc using WIFI. The kit was produced in the mid/late 2000s however I only managed to get it to work with a very old iPad 2 which is now defunct. I had a boss installed in the exhaust when building the car and did run it to test originally when I first put the car on the road. Cannot remember the values, but seemed sensible from memory.

Moving on to now, I had been conscious of the exhaust always being very black at the exit and on checking the plugs they were very black and sooty. Some of that would be recent moving the car around the drive exch day to keep the sun off, but thinking that something was amiss, I decided to check everything. I have had the carb off reasonably recently to check all was ok with the passageways, so did not venture ther, but did adjust the float level a bit lower as it appeared it to point towards the lid when the lid was upside down. I adjusted it so it was approx sitting level.

Another thought I had which was prompted by one of the writers in an old Classic Car mag was if the fuel pump was building up too much pressure and overwhelming the inlet valve of the carb. After a couple of wrong purchases I had a pressure gauge in the line which showed no appreciable back pressure to the carb from the mechanical pump as you would expect with the return line.

So I decided to put the AFR kit back into car, but had to work out how and on what to get the kit to show the readings. Reading through the docs, I noted that you could attach a USB cable and there was an old application for Windows available for download on the AEM site. So duly downloaded and tried to install on a Windows 10 box, first problem was the installer needs Microsoft .Net Framework V2, which is pretty ancient, after some searching I found a V2 .Net installer then managed to install the AEM app. On running it it came up first time and on connecting the USB to the powered up black box it installed a serial COM port driver. You then need to select that com port in the AEM app and connect, that was when a non sensible error came up which meant I could go no further.

So back to square one, however thinking that era of the kit was earlier Windows, I fired up an old version of XP which I have used for donkeys years, went through the same procedure and hey presto it all worked and I had a continuous readout of the sensor.

Next job was to semi permanently install the sensor/wiring/black box into the car. This was fairly simple and easy enough to remove. The black box is in the engine bay so how to get the usb from the cabin area. Fortunately on the pre facelift the side vents are direct into the scuttle, so a bit of thinning of the USB connector plastic and it fed through the vent and routed to the black box.

After a decent run I found that the normal AFR reading is around 13.1 which according to what I have read is very much ok for NA cars and on removing a plug the colour is also a nice brownish colour rather than the black previously seen.

I will keep monitoring it, but pretty happy with the results.

On a final note I also did a compression test when cold and all cylinders were at 150PSI which is what I had found originally when I put the car back on the road in 2021.

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #555 on: July 17, 2026, 07:11:02 PM »
Hi

Hopefully not as long a post!

As I have had to cancel going to the LMC weekend and the weather is going to be dry for the next week, I decided to keep the car at home for now and do a job (another) which I have been ignoring, ie that there is an exhaust blow somewhere around the manifold.

On jacking up the car and getting underneath and looking to the right front wheel I could see a load of moly grease and a split boot, bugger. This must have happened in the last 60 miles or so, hence should just need a clean and new boot. Glad I found it before a load of grit managed to get into it. This job is not one I relish, but needs to be done, so will get on with it tomorrow.


Then I can get on with the exhaust...

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #556 on: July 21, 2026, 12:49:21 PM »
Hi

New CV boot fitted, just as painful as expected, but for different reasons than expected, getting it off was not too badas did not need to replace the half shaft, but getting it back on was not helped by the C clip ending up distorted, so in the end being replaced, but not before I managed to damage slightly the end of one of the splines, so a 5 minute job turned into over an hour to get it back on. Anyway all back together, nut tightened up to torque setting so on with the exhaust.

After feeling near where the manifold meets the downtube there was escaping gases (did it on startup so the gas temp was not excessive...). Taking that joint apart however was no simple 5 minute task as there is the assembly at the bottom of the downpipe to remove and a shield to try to protect the rack attached to the manifold and to a plate which is part of the joint. Also very limited room to be able to reach into. So propapbly a couple of hours later I had the joint apart and the downpipe resting on the floor. There was obvious signs of black exhaust gases on the shield right next to the joint and I suspect that the main reason was to do with the metal plate for the shield which is sandwiched between the manifold and the downpipe. When I installed the downpipes originally I simply used the metal p[late and a single gasket, so there was metal to metal and I should have used 2 gaskets, one either side the metal plate for the shield. Luckily I found a couple of new gaskets in my box of gaskets, installed them and buttoned everything up and hey presto significantly reduced noise. The other benefit has been the car appears to idle better, still not perfect, but a lot better so a bit of a win.

Peter

Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline Nigel

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #557 on: July 21, 2026, 10:10:22 PM »
I suspect that the C clips on the drive shafts are more
for retention during shipping and handling, rather than any
function during use. There's not enough room for
any disengagement when fitted to the car.

For that reason I squeeze the clips past their 'round' then refit.

On the heat shield: I don't recall ever seeing 2 gaskets used, therefore
is this a feature of only series 1's? Possibly. On later manifolds the shield
is a simpler device retained by 6mm bolts into the manifold itself.

Nigel
1984 2.0 Carb HPE [ex Aus] Grigio Finanza.
2007 Mazda 6 2.3 [current daily, highly recommended]
The past:
1980 2.0 HPE White in South Africa [hope it survives!]
1976 1.6 Coupe Lancia Blu [PFG 76R] [probably deceased]
oh,and an Uno Turbo 1997 also in SA [stolen,never recovered]

Offline peteracs

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #558 on: July 21, 2026, 10:27:49 PM »

For that reason I squeeze the clips past their 'round' then refit.


I did consider leaving it off altogether given the length.


On the heat shield: I don't recall ever seeing 2 gaskets used, therefore
is this a feature of only series 1's? Possibly. On later manifolds the shield
is a simpler device retained by 6mm bolts into the manifold itself.


Looking at the parts book for the pre facelift the manifold with the embedded  threaded section was for specific countries, this style with the plate appeared to be general for the S2 pre facelift. It was interesting that in the parts listed the manifold to downpipe gasket had two entries under its part nos, one line says that 1 was included, the next line says 2 were include and no explanation.......

Peter
Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600

Offline SanRemo78

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Re: Spyder restoration - long time coming
« Reply #559 on: July 22, 2026, 08:24:50 AM »
I think the C Clip at the wheel end and the circlip at the inner end are intended to stop the shaft bottoming out at the opposite ends. If the outer one wasn't needed then I'm sure Lancia, in their cost cutting guise, would have eliminating the machining process on the shaft to make the groove and the clip itself. It's a fiddly little bugger to trap with the collar before assembly but I've always kept it.
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