Beta Coupe GCRE upgrade

[betabuoy]

WOW!  What a difference!

The kit fitted well and was relatively easy to set up. The App goes on your phone, and once the pass key is coded in all the settings are available to tweak on the PDA display.  There's even a tab to 'immobilise your device' which is a further useful anti-theft function.  But let's not get away from how transformative this has been.  A sensible drive through town is easy; accelerate from 1500rpm now possible; and whilst the engine was designed to pull from 2500rpm (it goes like a rocket above 3500rpm) it's now so smooth to get there.  Of course there haven't really been many other changes, apart from having a nice 36 degrees of advance from 5000rpm.

The progression holes in the carbs are interesting.  Never really a problem on the original Italian (pre '72, I think) Webers, but more tricky on the later Spanish versions.  On the rolling road, Mark had earlier enlarged one of the four holes in each of my 45 DCOEs.  He was still very happy with this, but added a slight 60 degree chamfer to the openings to help flow.  We've talked a lot about airflows in carbs, and there might be some other experiments to come, but for now it was just a couple of tiny jet changes.  

When I dig out the paperwork and emails, I will add the details of how to source a bespoke 123 system made for a Beta with block mounted distributor.  This set up is REALLY good; if you have a Beta in a configuration anything other than standard - map your ignition as soon as you can!

Ignore the MAP curve in the image from my phone below; although we could have taken a feed from the manifold, we decided it really doesn't need it.

[Neil-yaj396]

Did you keep the ignition module Chris? Or does the new distributor do that as well?

[WestonE]

Hi Chris

When I hear that the guy on the Rolling Road actually understands how to tune progression on Weber 45s you are in the right place and I am glad you are getting a strong return for effort and money.

This remains 2D mapping because there is no load sensor or throttle position sensor and just the improvement from the worn clockwork dizzy is worth it. Remember Fiat went early 3D mapping for the ignition on the 130TC. 3D just gives the engine the ignition advance it needs to give its best at granular speed and load sites. There are many good options for this now, but they all need extra sensors wiring and rolling road set up. Even the basic options delete the distributor.

I mention this here because other options should be considered.

Enjoy the work!

Eric   

[betabuoy]

Thanks Eric.  And the sky is the limit for engine control options but I'm very happy with where I am now.  We talked of shaving a tiny amount from the throttle valves (not effecting their seating) to give just a little earlier exposure to the progression holes.  Interesting.  This 123 solution was the set-up GC wanted me to use but at that stage we couldn't solve the block-mounted requirement without relocating the distributor and changing cam-boxes.  

[betabuoy]

Hi Neil,
The whole system was replaced; so the more modern ignition module that I used with a reconditioned Bosch distributor is no longer needed. 

Chris

[peteracs]

Hi Chris

Great result and for a carb setup I think a nice ‘simple’ solution.

For injection it would be a different case.

Peter

[betabuoy]

For anyone interested in acquiring similar 123 mappable bluetooth equipment, the components are from 123 Ignition in Holland, but they do not list a Beta block mounted option (just cam driven).  When I spoke to them on the phone, they recommended Classic Auto Elec in France who were extremely helpful over the phone and via email.

You will find them at: Classic Auto Elec, 4 avenue de la Loire, ZI les Poujeaux. 37530 NAZELLES NEGRON.

Or via email:  info@classicautoelec.com; www.classicautoelec.com.

These guys use the components from the Dutch factory and will assemble them to suit a wider variety of car models.

[WestonE]

Hi Chris,

I have seen the 123 distributor in use on Fiat 131/132 block mounted so I wonder if they are not understanding that the block mount is basically the same?

I saw this on Facebook So I would have to track back and ask where the owner got his unit from.

Eric

[betabuoy]

Took the Coupe to a friend locally today who will shortly embark on coach trimming my Recaros.  I'm now the owner of three rather large hides from some beautiful Scottish cows! 

A couple of photos below showing the 'before' seat condition and the hides ready for the magical cutting and stitching.  I'll add the 'after' pictures when complete.

I'm also taking the opportunity to shave a bit off the top of the Recaro seat foams to allow me to sit a little lower; it might be that they've been little used, but I'm currently sitting too high to fit comfortably when [occasionally] wearing a helmet.

[betabuoy]

I collected the car from Adrian yesterday and I'm delighted with it.  The grey Scottish leather smells gorgeous and Adrian's attention to detail is superb.  
He called me part way through the process to ask if I wanted him to remake the map pockets.  I wasn't sure to start, but otherwise the Beta is a bit bereft of stowage so I said yes.  The result is great.  Really neat, sturdy, and perfect for my A4 clipboard to be stowed vertically.

[Clifford3051]

Wow. How beautiful is that!
C

[smithymc]

Very smart Chris.

Mark

[WestonE]

Very nice Chris and not in Bum burning black. I see the door card challenge in your future. Just be aware you likely need 1mm thick leather if you want to match the door card inserts. This is because normal thickness can mean the cards block the doors shutting. Read the threads on door cards with care it is a fiddly job.

Note my Monte Interior is trimmed in 1mm thick leather in place of the aging vinyl.

Eric

[betabuoy]

Hi Eric,
Thanks. I’m delighted with the grey.  Regarding cards, my plan is to save and restore in their original fabric. I’ve always liked the colour/pattern and chose the leather to fit in. The cards and headlining will be a nod to how it was!
Chris

[Neil-yaj396]

Looks brilliant Chris. A real step forward and the Ricaros were definitely the right choice.

[Nigel]

Chris,
A lovely job. Your photos will help me with stitch placement on mine, so thanks for posting.

Also visible is the difference in foam thickness between the two seat squabs.
I also find I'm sitting too high.

I hope to do my Recaros justice but I doubt to such a standard as yours.

Nigel

[betabuoy]

Hi Nigel,
I found I was too high seated on the Recaros too. We managed to get about 25mm chopped off the seat foams and that’s helped.  Need to allow space for the crash helmet on track days 😉!

[betabuoy]

Quite a busy few months catching up on some husbandry including: oil and filter change (10W60), work on brakes, lights, cv joints and a wheel bearing.  Thanks as ever to Mark at the shop for reliably supplying most of the Beta specific parts that I needed.

There's been quite a bit of chat about brakes recently.  I had a slightly sticking front caliper and it's been over 20 years since Bigg Red refurbished the set so I decided it was a job for this year. I managed to get pistons and seals for the rears, but only seals for the fronts which was a pity; anyhow, those pistons cleaned up well and the calipers were stripped and vapour blasted before the new seals were fitted. Six new bleed nipples, and buckets of the rather pricey Dot 5 Silicone brake fluid completed the job (due to bleeding taking several attempts!) 

For the lights, I really need to improve the bare bones and a set received recently from Guy Mayers (thank you) will help; but that's going to be a winter job, so for now I've just fitted new 'super bright' bulbs (from Mark at the shop).  Also from the shop were new CV boots of which I've just replaced three.

Finally, I changed one rear wheel bearing which showed a tiny amount of play, only to now find that the other is a bit noisy when spun.  That's for another day.

[betabuoy]

The 12yr old paintwork on the Beta has started to look a bit on the shabby side and it's taken a rather annoying reaction to having been stored for a while after a hefty shower.  I know that was a stupid thing to do, but it happened... and the paintwork marks weren't shifting.  The photo below shows the 'rash'!

After a bit of research, this appears to be a known problem with the solution being T-Cut!  So with rags in hand, and copious amounts of the slightly gentler Auto Glym Renovator, I opted to have a go.  It took many hours to cut first the roof, then the boot, and finally the bonnet.  Everyone told me that I should have bought an electric polisher, but I persisted by hand and it seems to have worked as the picture below shows.

After cutting, I've added a good thick coat of polish for protection, but my concern now is that I've removed a good layer of 'protective' lacquer.  I'll keep adding polish for a while in the hope it lasts.  Oh, and I'll not leave it stored with wet topsides!

[smithymc]

I had a similar problem with mine when I first got it, Chris- it would dry a lighter colour where it has been wet.  The solution turned out to be to clay bar it( I had never heard of a clay bar!)- mine having been stored for years, the clay bar removed loads of contamination on a 'cleaned' car and it now dries fine.

Mark