Author Topic: My HPE....now a rolling recommission (Read 85656 times)

mangocrazy · « **Reply #60 on:** June 21, 2021, 09:28:57 AM »

Hi Nigel,

You're very welcome to borrow the tool I used to free my clutch arm. Just PM me your address and I'll send it off. Give it a good soaking with Plus Gas while you're waiting...

Graham

Nigel · « **Reply #61 on:** June 21, 2021, 12:52:56 PM »

That's awesome Graham,
Thanks, sending pm.

Nigel · « **Reply #62 on:** June 21, 2021, 05:46:49 PM »

Gents,
I've just measured the flywheel with a digital caliper and find the thickness to
be on the Haynes manual limit of 24.2mm.
However, at the back, i'm measuring from a small raised portion, I'm not sure where
it should be measured from.
In any case, does anyone have an updated-from-experience minimum to go by?

The effect of skimming too much is that the clutch assembly will be further away from the release
bearing I think, therefore perhaps reducing available adjustment?
Is there any other collateral effect that I should be wary of?

WestonE · « **Reply #63 on:** June 22, 2021, 07:37:47 AM »

Hi Nigel

Very hard to measure this. If it has never been ground before it is unlikely to be a problem. You want the flywheel surface ground if you can not skimmed in a lathe to better deal with hardened hot spots. Get the flywheel crack tested before they start. If cracks develop the flywheel can break away.

Enjoy

Eric
PS remember to replace the gearbox output seal and bearing carrier cover gasket. NB a thicker gasket pushes the release bearing closer to the clutch.

Nigel · « **Reply #64 on:** June 22, 2021, 06:17:30 PM »

Thanks Eric.

The flywheel is now in for crack test and grind. He reckons 10 thou should do it.

NB "a thicker gasket pushes the release bearing closer to the clutch".

During actuating, surely not? To achieve that, the fork would need modifying.

Nigel

WestonE · « **Reply #65 on:** June 23, 2021, 08:24:46 AM »

Hi Nigel

You are right I think the paint fumes from my house being painted are getting to me!

Eric

Nigel · « **Reply #66 on:** June 26, 2021, 08:29:42 PM »

I received a box of bits from TMH today, quicker than expected by DHL, but
the order and payment process was quite protracted.

I've now got all the seals and O rings, a gasket set, crank seal, clutch release bearing and diff bearings.
One part, the clutch arm bush, measures 0.4mm larger than the hole in the bellhousing.
Seems it might be a bit too big, but it fits the arm well enough.

I stripped the diff out of the box, and replaced the bearings. The old ones were not that bad
as it happens. I used a cheap 3 legged puller from Screwfix which I had to modify for the second bearing
on the engine side. The new ones tapped on with suitable pin punches, bottoming out nicely. I was pleased to
find that the magnet had no big bits attached, just fine swarf to be expected.

After a thorough cleaning, I'm going to reassemble tomorrow and see if the existing shim [1.80mm] will do the job.

As already suspected, the gearbox input shaft has bad bearings, but the main shaft feels ok. I may well leave this for
now, and do these bearings later.

mangocrazy · « **Reply #67 on:** June 26, 2021, 10:09:00 PM »

Quote from: Nigel on June 26, 2021, 08:29:42 PM

One part, the clutch arm bush, measures 0.4mm larger than the hole in the bellhousing.
Seems it might be a bit too big, but it fits the arm well enough.

Hi Nigel,

That's very interesting - I've just bought the same part but from Betaboyz; I haven't measured it and the bell housing orifice up yet, but would like to know what your measurements are. I'll reciprocate once I've dug my way into the ~~bombsite~~ shed...

Graham

Nigel · « **Reply #68 on:** June 27, 2021, 08:16:59 AM »

Hey Graham, that was your 1000th post!

The bush is 27.32 and the gearbox is 26.95,maybe 27.00.

My concern is that the gearbox hole has a split section which could easily crack if put
under too much load.

Nigel · « **Reply #69 on:** June 28, 2021, 05:42:41 PM »

Hi Eric,
A question please:
As i've replaced the diff bearings with the gear shafts in place, i'm unable to
do any pre-load procedure. Is it relatively safe to use the existing shim to reassemble?

Thanks, Nigel

WestonE · « **Reply #70 on:** June 29, 2021, 07:18:48 AM »

Hi Nigel

Yes in my experience. With the same Diff in the same casings you are using the OE factory assembly. When you mix and match from boxes for the best parts it must be checked.

Eric

Nigel · « **Reply #71 on:** June 29, 2021, 07:28:43 PM »

Many thanks Eric, appreciated.

Differential now reassembled.

As for the slightly oversized clutch arm bush, I've 'turned' in down.
I found a socket that fitted snugly inside and bolted it together with washers
on a piece of all-thread, then spun it in a pillar drill against a flat file.
I'm favouring locking it from turning, so pinning a notch into it is the next task.

Nigel · « **Reply #72 on:** June 30, 2021, 05:50:54 PM »

I rummaged through the box of bits and found what looked like the
possible candidate, a Weber idle jet.
Its body is about 1mm smaller than the slot, with the split leg at 4mm.

Some filing, drilling and grinding later, it works a treat.

WestonE · « **Reply #73 on:** June 30, 2021, 06:05:41 PM »

Good to see creativity in action.

mangocrazy · « **Reply #74 on:** June 30, 2021, 08:01:20 PM »

Nice one, Nigel! I was thinking that a small metric cap head screw would also work. An M2.5 cap head screw has a head diameter of 4.5mm, which is fine for our purposes. All you need to do is to drill a hole that corresposds with the tapping clearance (about 2 mm), tap the hole to M2.5 x 0.45 and Bob is your mother's brother...

squiglyzigly · « **Reply #75 on:** June 30, 2021, 09:15:00 PM »

Liking this a lot.
Nice work

Ian

Nigel · « **Reply #76 on:** July 11, 2021, 06:43:50 PM »

Good progress today and recently.

Last weekend I took out the right hand strut, dissembled, cleaned and regreased the top
swivel bearing. I've already done the left side, both now good to go.

Today the flywheel, clutch and gearbox went back in.
Hot tip: it's best to remember to fit the sandwich plate before the flywheel, otherwise it gets all bent again!
I must say the gearbox was quite a struggle on my own, but doable. Several small blocks of wood to position
it helped a lot.

I'd noticed a rumble on the wheel bearing in the left-hand hub i'd removed. As it happens, I had one in
my stock of bits from SA, Fiat packaging, and at least 30 years old, bearings don't age, right?
This one felt fine, so I fitted it using some sockets as pushers in my No 5 Record vice.

I'm now ready to reassemble the left-hand hub, strut and stuff, another day.....

Sandro · « **Reply #77 on:** July 12, 2021, 02:57:48 PM »

Nice work Nigel !

A.

Nigel · « **Reply #78 on:** July 16, 2021, 06:07:49 PM »

Thanks Andrew!

Took it for a short drive just now. I adjusted the clutch while out, it had a bit
too much free play.
The steering is not really feeling any lighter, a little disappointing, and it's still not
self-centering as much as I think it should.

I'll take it for a longer run tomorrow.

HFStuart · « **Reply #79 on:** August 02, 2021, 06:51:47 PM »

Quote from: squiglyzigly on June 19, 2021, 04:05:50 AM

I think the beta/monte box is fairly unique in its use. Maybe Eric can help me out here but apart from the Beta and a few vans I don’t think it was used anywhere else.

Ian,

The same box was used on the Fiat Coupe 16V Non turbo so it might have gone into similar era Fiats (1st Gen Tipo etc)

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Author Topic: My HPE....now a rolling recommission (Read 85656 times)