Rear wheel wobble on a spyder

[Spyder79]

Took my wheels off the other day as they were rubbing on the wheel arches (wider wheels 195's) under full load.

Now I have a severe and unnerving wheel wobble at 60 mph.....shakes the whole car.

I have taken them back off and retightened them but it is still the same.

Is it possible that the wheel were balance on the car and now i have put them on in a different position?

Need to get it sorted for Goodwood on 22nd......any one got any ideas?

[MattNoVAT]

Moving a wheel from one corner to another should not require a re balance.  Likelyhood is that a wheel weight has dropped off.

The new weights that stick to the inside of the wheel (to avoid unsighly lumps of lead) only work well if the alloy was cleaned first, if wheels are dusty/dirty they can drop off very easily. Or if they have not been pushed on hard enough they can drop off  (My Coffin spokes had a weight drop off an hour after fitting, wheels were spotless so just not pressed on hard enough to force the air out of the spongy adhesive pad. 

[MattNoVAT]

Try moving it to the front - if the front then vibrates - its deffo in need of a balance

[TonyLanciaBeta (Tony Harrison)]

Hi Mick

If you wanted to bring the car to Ripley, I'll check/re-balance them for you after work one day

cheers
Tony

[lanciamad]

Most probably wheel out of balance; worth while checking all the suspension bolts are tight and the bushes are in good order. Are they standard wheels and bolts?

[Spyder79]

Hi Mick

If you wanted to bring the car to Ripley, I'll check/re-balance them for you after work one day

cheers
Tony

Thanks Tony , thay would be brilliant.

What day and time suits you?

Dont know if i bent the transverse link arms when i jacked it up.........but i really dont think so.
Where do you guys jack them up with a trolley jack?

Thanks to all the those that replied with advice as well.

In answer to Lanciamad

Wheels are not standard and the bolts are fitted to the hub permanently so the nut is all that is removed.

[lanciamad]

I personally jack from the rear of the front subframe either side for the front and on the rear I use the rear anti-roll bar, you definately don't want to be jacking on any of the transverse arms, your be suprised how weak they are, there bend instantly.

[lanciamad]

PS. Nice car Was this the spyder previously owned by Steve, who's got the red hf turbo now?

[Spyder79]

It certainly was or is.....

Thanks for the comment...he did a great job.

Drove faultlessly back from Hull apart from windscreen wipers and gear linkage coming loose.

Very pleased with her.....love the driving part but not so keen on the repair side.

[Neil-yaj396]

I have found that rear suspension problems (damaged transverse arms, worn out shocks etc.) manifest themselves as a hard to describe but un-nerving 'shimmy' when cornering or accelerating hard.
Rear jacking is best under the strut base, rear subframe (with a block/pad) or the jacking plate if it's still there (again with a block/pad - behind the petrol tank and recommended in the owner's manual).

[Spyder79]

Thanks to Tony 

The problem is solved.

The plastic wheel centre that makes the wheel sit where it should was crushed and the wheel was slightly off set as a result.
(wish id taken pictures of it now cause i dont know how else to describe it).

Meant one of my wheels was oval on the axle................no wonder it wobbled.

Any way just tested it on the A3 and she ran perfectly up to "ahem" the speed limit.

Thank you Tony .....Goodwood is now back on.