Engine turns off

[Joe912/62]

Car starts okay but soon after putting the car in gear and moving forward a few inches the engine just shuts off. Any ideas? It feels like the engine stutters while accelerating.

[Ferrit]

does it matter if you boot it/rev the guts out or move off super smooth?

Mark

[Joe912/62]

No doesn’t really matter

[Nigel]

It sounds like a bad electrical connection, possibly between
the engine and body.
Try simulating the issue by wiggling any and all cables that run
between the two. Distributor and alternator come to mind.

Nigel

[SanRemo78]

I assume that th engine will rev whilst stationary? Brakes dragging? Most likely an electrical issue with a damaged cable somewhere, check earth leads between the battery and chassis and chassis and engine. Clean and grease. Ignition lead between coil and dizzy - is that chafing on the alternator bracket?
Guy

[Joe912/62]

Need some help with this issue. I’ve basically changed most of the old components that I think were original to the car. I’ve installed new fuel injectors, thermo time switch, temperature sensor and replaced the fuel filter. Also got a working relay ( I think mine is still good).
Still have the same issue. Car idles for 10-20 seconds and then dies.
 What else can it be? Can it be the ignition control module?

[Nigel]

Need some help with this issue. I’ve basically changed most of the old components that I think were original to the car. I’ve installed new fuel injectors, thermo time switch, temperature sensor and replaced the fuel filter. Also got a working relay ( I think mine is still good).
Still have the same issue. Car idles for 10-20 seconds and then dies.
 What else can it be? Can it be the ignition control module?

Joe, was anything done just before the problem occured?

As it runs, albeit for a short time, assume the injectors and fuel filter are good.
Can you hear the fuel pump running after the engine has stalled?
Perhaps give the fuel pump an independent 12v feed, for testing? This would bypass
anything that could shut it down.

Nigel
ps: keep a fire extinguisher close by for obvious reasons.

[Joe912/62]

I had to repair the fuel tank because it was leaking and are impossible to find.
Cleaned and sealed the inside and used some epoxy on the outside.
 I changed a brake line, rubber brake lines. After doing that I took the car around the block to test and all was well. Can I use a power prob to give it power to test?

[Nigel]

Yes, assuming it gives 12v positive to the correct side of the 2 pump connections.
You'll have to test which side is earthed, or go by wire colour.

I think your fuel tank will have multiple (4) narrow vents all connecting to
a miniature manifold mounted on or near the right side suspension turret? Check that you can
suck/blow through these vent lines, and the one that goes down
from the manifold, back trough the big floor grommet, and hangs below the car.
They can easily block with tank sealant.

The other issue with tank sealant is that it can block the non-servicable strainer mesh that
sits below the tank level sender unit. This could also be an issue.

Nigel

[Joe912/62]

Thanks Nigel, I’ll check that but hoping it’s not a clogged screen

[Nigel]

Joe,
Further thinking: It is very likely the mesh is clogged with sealant. This circular
mesh surrounds the swirl pot, a fixed device to prevent fuel starvation
at low levels and hard cornering. The fuel is drawn up from this pot through
the pipe mounted in the gauge sender. The mesh was fitted to act as a large particle
filter, but is not so necessary provided you have the filter mounted before the pump.

Elsewhere on here, the method for puncturing the mesh is explained. A right-angled
spikey tool is used to make several holes. Tricky but doable.

Nigel

[Joe912/62]

Thanks Nigel, my car is a. 82 Zagato and doesn’t have the same fuel sending unit. It doesn’t have the tube and mesh on it. It has the plastic float only.

[Nigel]

Joe,
Sorry, my mistake, your fuel is sucked up with a separate pipe fixed in the tank,
as is mine.
To clarify, the mesh is fixed to the bottom of the swirl pot. It is this
that needs puncturing.
I'm not saying this is definitely your problem, but your symptoms do indicate this.

Another way of eliminating the tank as the issue would be to feed the pump from a can.

Nigel

[Joe912/62]

That sounds like a good idea. I’ll pinch off the hose from tank to the pump and put a new hose from the pump to a gas can.

[Joe912/62]

Before I try that can it be possible that I have the connection crossed at the pump? Is the grey or black wire power? If they were crossed would the pump be sucking rather than pumping?

[Joe912/62]

Photo again

[Nigel]

If the pump was sucking you wouldn't have a 15 second run time.
You'd have a crank, no start.
So assume, for the moment, that it's pumping and do the can test.

N.

[Joe912/62]

Can I assume that the black wire is ground?
There are 2 posts on the pump, a large one and a smaller one. As you can see the grey wire (positive)is currently on the small terminal. If I apply power to the posts on the pump the pump runs no matter what side I apply power

[peteracs]

Is the black wire post also connected internally to the casing I which case it is the GND?

Peter

[Nigel]

I would think there would be plus and minus markings next to
the terminals. Anything there Joe?

Also check Peter's pointer.

N.