SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[Neil-yaj396]

Just to answer some of you questions;

Oil filter - all the same except VX. You can get one from Betaboyz or any quality brand elsewhere.
Fuel additive - I use Millers VSP. My car used to run ok on the old low octane unleaded, but when it went to E10 it didn't like it on longer runs so moved to super after that.
Filter King - worth having just to regulate the fuel flow and have a visible quality filter. I fitted mine with the standard mechanical pump but others prefer an electric pump. If you fit an electric pump it will need a cut-off switch too.
Gearbox oil - there are recommendations on here if you search. Redline?

Neil

[peteracs]

Hi

As per above for the gearbox, Redline 75w 90NS. The NS is important due to modern oils can attack the synchros.

I use just E5 petrol in my car without any additives, no problems so far. The mech pump works fine, but keep the return line with it. As above installing an electrical pump requires you to add crash sensor cut off to be safe. I install a filter before and after the mech pump again to be safe as I have had crud come from the tank/old hard lines when I first started using it after it had been stood for a long time.

Fuel lines, I used Cohline, make sure from reputable supplier, you need R9 certified, from memory 8mm on supply and 6mm on return and remember there are hoses attached to the tank as well as in the engine bay.

Peter

[Ferrit]

two months later at its in the UK but will still take two more weeks to be 'de-vanned' and then sent to me.  I might see it ws 16/06.  Its like Christmas Eve as a kid meets Ground Hog Day :-(

[WestonE]

Gearbox Oil Redline 75W90 NS from OPIE Oils. Get 2 Quarts and NS is not a typo. This variant will give great cold shifts and not attack the brass synchro rings. Change it hot.

Eric   

[Ferrit]

Got it Eric :-)  Thank you

Now can I have some pictures of your finished VX interior :-)

Long term I want to do the same and think it would go well with my red car.  When I get it of course 

[Ferrit]

So its finally here!  I can stop worrying about it actually turning up to start worrying about the work i need to do, and what on earth have I done buying it.

Body is okay, I have not found any big time rust as yet.  Rear turret first glance looks pretty good
Rear bushes are shot.  I am thinking they were very old/its not been used/wheels tied down all this way (7200 nm) has possibly not helped
Handbrake is dead - I remember they were a PitA BitD
Its overheating and smells of fuel - coolant flush is in need by the look of it.

I am going to assume at the moment the brake calipers need refurbishing - any recommendations on where to get this carried out?  I will sort out the old fuel, tank and pipes at some point.

Wiring is a bit messy...  this will need some work

Daunting but tough its mine, it might just take a few weeks longer than I guessed (silly).

[rossocorsa]

If the body is good that's the best situation anything mechanical can be sorted and even the nicest looking Beta for sale in the UK could easily have similar wear and issues. Fix it and you'll know it's all 100% right.

[peteracs]

Am liking the weeks part, will be interesting to see the reality! Hope it proves to be as straight forward as you hope however…..

Peter

[Ferrit]

with my tongue firmly in my cheek

[HFStuart]

The good news is there's nothing scary to fix there and you've free access to what I suspect it the world's best source of practical Beta advice!

Incidentally where in the country are you?

[Nigel]

Hi Mark,
I would start by concentrating on the cooling system, fuel smells and handbrake.

Soak the levers on the rear calipers for a day or two, do the cables appear to move?
Fuel hoses, 2 front and 2 rear should be replaced with R9 or higher spec. The fronts are tricky
access, remove the big steering arm gaiter from its 4 fixings and do them from there.

Has it had a recent/known cambelt change? If not, do it now. And at the same time I'd fit a
new water pump. The bottom steel coolant rail can completely clog up. Are the two small coolant
pipes to and from the choke actuator getting warm?

I've just realised I've repeated some good advice already posted!

Important:  Your first MOT will be done using the VIN number. If it fails the first test, make sure the MOT tester
creates a brand new entry for the car. DVLA won't accept the partial number that the system normally
generates on a retest. (It happened to me on my imported Mazda)
Even though it's an 82 model, I think it will need an MOT for initial registration, but open to correction.
It's a good idea anyway.

Nigel

[Ferrit]

The good news is there's nothing scary to fix there and you've free access to what I suspect it the world's best source of practical Beta advice!

Incidentally where in the country are you?

I am in Surrey UK Stuart

[Ferrit]

Hi Mark,
I would start by concentrating on the cooling system, fuel smells and handbrake.

Soak the levers on the rear calipers for a day or two, do the cables appear to move?
Fuel hoses, 2 front and 2 rear should be replaced with R9 or higher spec. The fronts are tricky
access, remove the big steering arm gaiter from its 4 fixings and do them from there.

Has it had a recent/known cambelt change? If not, do it now. And at the same time I'd fit a
new water pump. The bottom steel coolant rail can completely clog up. Are the two small coolant
pipes to and from the choke actuator getting warm?

I've just realised I've repeated some good advice already posted!

Important:  Your first MOT will be done using the VIN number. If it fails the first test, make sure the MOT tester
creates a brand new entry for the car. DVLA won't accept the partial number that the system normally
generates on a retest. (It happened to me on my imported Mazda)
Even though it's an 82 model, I think it will need an MOT for initial registration, but open to correction.
It's a good idea anyway.

Nigel

Thank you Nigel your advice is much appreciated.  Tomorrow i am going to flush the coolant and oil.  Do a compression test and if the oil looks okay send off an analysis.  I will report back how i get on snd answer your questions Nigel

[peteracs]

The good news is there's nothing scary to fix there and you've free access to what I suspect it the world's best source of practical Beta advice!

Incidentally where in the country are you?

I am in Surrey UK Stuart

Not a million miles from Tony and probably a few more!

Peter

[Nigel]

 I live in Kent but visit my daughter in Addlestone every month or so. I could bring my
hpe one weekend and visit if you're not too far from there.

Nigel

[Ferrit]

I live in Kent but visit my daughter in Addlestone every month or so. I could bring my
hpe one weekend and visit if you're not too far from there.

Nigel

That would be ace Nigel.  I am in KT7.  I can supply good coffee/cake/lunch :-)

[Ferrit]

So today after a bike ride in the Surrey Hills I spent the afternoon in the baking sun working on Luigi (not sure if it will stick, named after Mario's brother).

Flushed the coolant a few times, cleaned out the expansion res, changed the oil, tried to fix the bonnet release by stripping and lubing the cable and putting it back together (it didnt work but will try adjusting again before I renew the cable), a front and rear wheel off to have a look at the suspension etc.

Good news: Its like new underneath, amazing the middle section (between the sill lips) is original underseal and looks like its a couple years old, sills are solid on the inside of the 'lip', jacking points are mint, everything is solid as a rock.  Suspension and springs all look mint possible repainted.  I will get an endoscope in the rear box section.  Washer bottle is missing but I have a repo one from Betaboyz ready.

The Bad: handbrake cable is dead, it seems to have lost one end, all the suspension bushes need doing (some have been hand made but are not ideal, or original type and are shot, ARB, look okay but will do at the same time.  The big'e is I think the head gasket is gone.  Coolant was low and the condensation in the breathers, filler and dip stick, drained the oil and its like grey chocolate milkshake.  I will get a compression tester and see what that shows something, maybe stick a camera down the bores this week.

And the ugly: not much tbh, door seals need doing, boot lid needs adj, wiring is a mess but everything works, wiper stalk has been repaired, again everything works.  Steering wheel is minging, but I have a leather one one of you guys supplied and I have restored.  I might just do the clutch cable and the look at the gear change bushes.  Fuel pipe is leaking by the carb but I was planning to replace.  Still contemplating dropping the tank and clean the outside properly and repaint with some stone chip, in fact all the stone chip needs doing at some point, its not nice.  Wiring and stone chip is a winter project.

Head gasket testing is next.  I have a coolant tester, I will do that and order a compression gauge

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

Good progress and sounds like the bodywork is in decent condition which is a big plus, everything else can be sorted at reasonable cost, though depending on what you find with the engine, that could involve engine out which is not so pleasant.

Best of luck and see you Sunday.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Question, can you do a head gasket in situ?  I have only pulled engines out of Beta BitD

Lancia OC man came to verify it. 

[Nigel]

Mark,
Yes, head gasket change very doable.
Leave the manifolds in place, do those gaskets on the bench.
You may need a hand to lift it off though.

Nigel