SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[Ferrit]

Battery ordered.  Thanks for info @nigel

I have a bit of an oil leak going on somewhere, its not big, I will clean it all up and see if it comes back quick and where from.  Maybe next job before the cam belt this week.

How do you get the steering lock/ignition lock out?  I had a look but am struggling.  Key man says the key numbers are on it.

Hi Mark, I don’t think it’s critical but I noticed that the bolts attaching the rear anti roll bar are bolted to the rear hub with the nut on the inside. This means you can’t remove the bolt easily. If you need to put it right you’ll need to remove the wheel, calliper carrier and disc, undo the three 10mm bolts holding the dust shields so you can rotate them to clear the bolt for removal.

I checked the Lancia parts book which clearly shows the bolts go on from the hub side. I’ll invite others to offer an opinion as to whether this needs putting right or if it’s safe as is, I can’t see a problem yet.

On other news, I’m still searching for a second knurled knob to fit the rear boot trim, I know there are two in the garage but only one has surfaced so far! I’ll get them in the post as soon as I find the second one!

Guy

Thank you Guy on both counts and thank you for bothering to sort out the kn0bs for me

[SanRemo78]

The ignition key number should be on the key itself, not sure if it's on the lock anywhere but happy to be corrected.

To remove the lock you need to remove the cowl and drill out two shear nuts on the opposite side of the clamp to the barrel itself. You can replace them with ordinary allen head bolts.

Guy

[rossocorsa]

If you have the key  I believe you can remove the ignition barrel by undoing a screw on the side and then turning the key in the barrel to a specific position which will allow it to come out of its casing.

[rossocorsa]

Re  handbrake I think I read your dimensions in a hurry confused myself and I might be wrong, I will have another look today and check again! Apologies if it  turns out I'm wrong!

Well I couldn't find a definitive answer but on the earlier cars the long sleeved side goes on the offside, this is how it is orientated on my VX but I don't know if that's by design or mistake 😂 as it's years since I did anything to it!

[Nigel]

To remove the lock you need to remove the cowl and drill out two shear nuts on the opposite side of the clamp to the barrel itself. You can replace them with ordinary allen head bolts.

Guy

Those sheared bolts are, surprisingly, often not very tight. I got mine out by using
a hammer and centre punch positioned carefully. They rotated out fairly easily.

Nigel

[Ferrit]

it might be easier just let him send me a couple blanks and I can get them cut locally.

[rossocorsa]

Is it ignition key that you want to copy?

[Ferrit]

All the keys.  I just have one set.  The square key he is able to reverse engineer no sweat.  I think I will just get blanks for the ignition and fuel cap if I cant get it out.

[Ferrit]

Whilst underneath on the weekend I investigated the base of the gear stick, should there be a grommet protecting from the elements?  I found a pile of gloop bitumen stuff dripping out/sort of covering the hole.  I might need to pull it all apart and investigate, clean check.  So...

How do you test for where on the gear selector bushes and link, or should I just do it?  three bushes and a link from Betaboyz right?

If there is a protection grommet, can someone share some photos of the area and grommet unless I have it wrong?

[rossocorsa]

All the keys.  I just have one set.  The square key he is able to reverse engineer no sweat.  I think I will just get blanks for the ignition and fuel cap if I cant get it out.

I think fuel cap should be there same as the doors

[rossocorsa]

Whilst underneath on the weekend I investigated the base of the gear stick, should there be a grommet protecting from the elements?  I found a pile of gloop bitumen stuff dripping out/sort of covering the hole.  I might need to pull it all apart and investigate, clean check.  So...

How do you test for where on the gear selector bushes and link, or should I just do it?  three bushes and a link from Betaboyz right?

If there is a protection grommet, can someone share some photos of the area and grommet unless I have it wrong?

If the joints/ bushes are old original they will probably be prone to failure due to age so I would change them but if course this can all get ridiculous. I ended up with an unfinished car and no time to do it because I got too fussy and was changing everything! Well as well as the rust that you don't have and a worn out engine....

[SanRemo78]

Yes there should be a big heavy oval grommet protecting the base of the gearlever and stopping ingress of water and mud into a box section and creating carnage over time. I'll get you a photograph but I would suggest asking Mark if he has a good spare one or taping over the hole permanantly. These grommets tend to get cooked by the exhaust, especially if the heatshield is AWOL.

Guy

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

On the ignition key, if you have an original probably simpler to get a blank. As mentioned you can get to the code, but simpler to get one copied.

As mentioned normally the fuel filler cap key is the same as the door and glove box key, but they do get swapped. Not that difficult a job to re pin them to make them all the same, just takes time and patience.

I have spare pins if you need them.

Peter

[peteracs]

Hi Mark

Having said that re the keys, if you wanted to give them the correct code, then I have just been through the loop.

Disconnect battery. Take off the plastic cowling around the ignition barrel. Remove the small cross headed screw in the side of the barrel. Insert the key and turn to get to the ignition on point. On the opposite side to the screw is a small pin which you press in. This allows the whole barrel to be pulled out until you can see the whole of the crimped on cover for the barrel. Carefully prise off the cover (3 crimps on mine) and that will reveal the code you are after on the face of the barrel. Mine started with A followed be 4 digits.

Photo shows the barrel pulled out and the cover separate. The code is stamped in the face of the barrel.

Hope that helps.

Peter

[Ferrit]

Thank you all.  I have three keys.  All the doors and glove box use the single square profile key, the ignition and the fuel cap also use a key each.  The fuel cap is a Fiat/Lancia item.

I will try and get the barrel out later.  Thank you Peter.

Mark said he would call me later with some questions I have around the front bushes fitment (subframe support is bending in when I torque up), and if he has any black pressed rear arm bushes yet.  I will ask him about the gear stick grommet.

You are dead right rossocorsa, I am really trying hard trying to not do everything, but at the same time be aware and understand what I need to buy and do to fix everything.  I am going to get it running before I do gear selector bushes I think.

[Neil-yaj396]

Here's a pic of the 2 brackets on the rear panel that locate the jack and tool box (s2 Facelift). I recall that the set up was different in my 2000ie, but may be wrong.

[Ferrit]

Can you zoom out on that shot Neil?

[SanRemo78]

HiMark, photos of the bung for the floorpan underneath the gear-lever. This is my spare one that I'm reluctant to part with in case the (marginally better) one falls out. As you can see it's not in great condition with tears and splits but it may be possible to repair it with some rubber cement if necessary. If anyone else has a spare one can they donate it to Mark?

Cheers
Guy

[Ferrit]

I dont blame you :-)

What are dims?  There must be something out there

[SanRemo78]

Slightly bigger than the hole it fits! Flange overlaps by about 5mm?