SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[WestonE]

I use Moly Grease although water proof cycle grease is good. Do really clean these with parts washer thoroughly before re-grease and fit. Your nylon insert looks trashed and the bearings are missing rollers. Perhaps find some used struts to strip for parts to replace these. I think the nylon insert helps to support he struts staying centered.

[Ferrit]

and the other side is all good, in fact mint.  Interestingly the support plastic still slots in place and does its job, and the bearing will do until I find a replacement.  It easy-peasey to pull out and I need it off the drive.

I did clean and use a bike teflon waterproof bearing grease.  Good side has a messed up stud I need to sort out.

[WestonE]

On the Stud. They can just be tapped out by putting a nut on top and tapping with the strut top supported. They only hold in place with a serration on the outer so a spare can be tapped in assuming your issue is a messed up thread that will not clean with an 8x1.25mm die.   

[Ferrit]

Thanks Eric. I have found a thread here on the replacement bearings I will strat checking the sizes later.

The stud.  In the end I had to cut the nut off with a Dremil.  The thread is gone.  I have found a few similar studs but none exact.  One is from a BMW Mini strut top fixing.  I will order a few.

One sides back in and looking good.  I have a week or so until the carb top is back from Classic Carb's, after a repair.  I have a feeling the carb might need a complete refurb but I am trying the correct jets, good clean (as instructed by Classic Carb's) and float location as it should and see how that is.

[SanRemo78]

Studs - I think I've got a few spare ones I had plated that I'm happy to donate to the cause. Cause I don't need them! They've been plated and should just pull into the top mount with some washers and a nut. Or a hammer. Drop me a PM?

Cheers
Guy

[Ferrit]

Oh thats brilliant tvm Guy

[Ferrit]

I will finish off cleaning the rest of the carb later.  Plus been ordering stock yellow bzp nuts and bolts etc.  I have rounded off a ARB bolt on the front so might do that in a mo as I have the right HT yellow bolts for this.

I have cleaned the front ns shock out of oil and its been draining etc.  I will build it up tonight, baring the top mount etc

[Ferrit]

Yesterday was a sunny fine day.  Finally got all the wheels back on and off of its home of axle stands.  Thanks you all for your help and advice and parts.  All suspension done for the time being. 

#viewfrommytea

Waiting for the carb top to come back post repair from Classic Carb and rebuilt with the right jets and a new float and needle.  Hopefully over the Christmas period in time for a couple outings.

Next it will be gear change bushes etc; valve clearances and maybe the front bumper off in Jan to try and sort out the shrinking rubbers.

Happy Christmas to you all.

Mark

[Ferrit]

Happy Christmas all.

Carb top back from Classic Carbs having been repaired.  All cleaned and correct jets loaded now ready for an install and hopefully start up in the morning.

Question - what is this hole near the base, and no its not the idle mixture, thats around the corner.  I cant find any reference to it anywhere so far




 

[Ferrit]

Pants!!

So carb back on and pretty much started and ran straight away.  All good.

Long story short though, ran it up to temp twice and went for a spin.  1 mile away from the house, put my foot down and bam white smoke out the back and now power.  I got it off the duel carriageway and stopped.  I coxed it home after a quick check.  I think running on two cylinders.

1 and 4 are pretty much dead and 2 and 3 were at c175 psi (really quick spin over).  Coolant gone'ish but the oil looks okay.  Head off next week. 

I think in order 1234

[Ferrit]

suspension felt nice 

[SanRemo78]

Sorry to hear about the latest hiccup - you'll get there! Hoping to get back on my car in the coming days after a bout of flu.... Great timing.

[Ferrit]

Thanks but thinking hey at least I will get to the bottom of the state of the engine this way, and happy to do this in the winter near home rather than miles away in the Summer.  After all its a spare to the spare car ;-)

[Ferrit]

Can I change the title of my blog to 'What next?!!' 

[peteracs]

Hi

Hope the block does not need a skim, just the head or just new gasket....

Peter

[Ferrit]

Me too.  I am thinking the worst, and if it has to come out its the time to go through the whole thing.  Best case if its just the HG I will sort out the broken tensioner bolt, and go through items such as water pump, exhaust manifold studs etc.

Do you remove the manifolds (both) before removing the head or after?

[SanRemo78]

Have you got a replacement tensioner bolt Mark?

[Ferrit]

I have, Peter found and supplied one.  Interestingly I have read a few times (inc in my GC book) to not use it but use a HT bolt and lock nuts.

Questions I have are:

1. how best to remove head, ie manifold on or off?

2. bearing in mind I am doing this on my drive and with a reduced budget for the time being, what should I check and do as a matter or course even if the head and block is in great nick?  Obv if the engine is a mess thats a whole different longer term story.  Interestingly looking at the photos down the bore myself and friend noticed it looked like honing marks...  I wonder what I will find when I get the head off?  Cant wait but its going to be later this week.

M

[SanRemo78]

Are you supposed to retorque the head after a few hundred miles? If it's showing signs of having been honed then there's a possibility that wasn't done? I'd be checking the cam box oil seals for weeping and replace them too. Disturbing the cam boxes and replacing gaskets there may lead to noisy tappets and the need to reshim them so leave well alone if the head is good and doesn't need a skim. If it does then so be it, valve stem oil seals at the same time, check the valve stems aren't bent when the head is off too. If it ran fine then they ought to be good and it's just a head gasket. New cam belt and tensioner bearing and alternator belt whilst it's all apart?

Tensioner bolts - I always used the spanner flats nearest the bracket, not the outer one when removing it. Less chance of shearing the head off. Somewhere I have a long handled, thin, straight, single ended spanner for the job. First used on my first car when the starter cable stretched and the pull lever stopped working. It was possible to push the lever on the starter motor from behind the car to get it going. (name that car!) but it is equally useful for removing and refitting a Beta tensioner spring!

[kbetas]

FYI here are before and after pictures of the head from the rally car after the gasket went. Bought a full set of top end gaskets from Betaboyz and replaced cam belt / tensioner / water pump / cam box gaskets / oil seals. Valves etc were all ok and didnt need to replace any shims. It had probably been on the way out for a while because engine felt like we had fitted a turbo once it was all back together........