SA Import Beta 2000 Coupe

[peteracs]

MOT ?...Do you need one for a Classic car or are you just wanting the assurance ?

As Tim says a good check on your work (or anyone else's which is as important). Case in point was my car ran really well and the brakes were really good, so would not have checked them without the MOT guy commenting on the fronts dragging slightly. Not enough to fail, but not as he would have expected. On checking I found a weeping out of the front piston vent hole which indicated a weeping seal. Without the MOT brake test I would never have known and may have led to excessive brake wear and overheating perhaps.

Peter

[SanRemo78]

Plus one for the annual test, peace of mind that someone else can have. look over it and identify any wear that comes in gradually that you don't notice driving the car until it's too late. Insurance is another issue, prove it was maintained properly in the event of a claim? MOT history is a good starting point. Interestingly, although the Stratos replica is registered as a Historic Vehicle the mere fact that it's a kit (or a Radically Altered Vehicle) means MOT tests forever....
Guy

[Nigel]

I'm another that does annual MOT's.

In a previous year the tester found a rack boot split. I told
him I'd not have spotted that for quite a while.

As said already, although the MOT is just a snap-shot, it will
demonstrate vehicle care and upkeep to officialdom.

N.

[peteracs]

I actually take the view that every two years is sufficient given the mileage I do.

Peter

[deks]

My view is if you have to start worrying about the cost, then you should not do it

This is advice I am keen to read and think maybe I need heed.

[Ferrit]

Loctite 542 turned up so removed the stud which was loose.  Dave was right.

Measured the depth, checked against the studs from the old head and were the same.  What I actually ended up doing was flipped the stud and tested if it would bottom out, and it did so cleaned it all out as best as I could and Loctited in.  Tightened up all the nuts on the manifold.  I will leave it 24 hours and give it a go.

Some Funk Motorsport wrap is here tomorrow so I will wrap what I can to hopefully protect the rack seals a little bit more

[Ferrit]

Right so far no manifold stud or rack leaks.  I didnt get around to fitting the heat wrap.  I need to remove the shroud of the manifold to have a fighting chance, and the lower downpipess are not going to make a huge difference on their own.

I thought I would fit the Filter King the dyno people recommended.  30 min job took 3 hrs, due to 1. me being an idiot and connecting it up before the pump first go, and 2. me being an idiot and pinging a fuel line clip behind the aux pulley.  [sigh], set at 3psi (purchased from Glencoe as recommended by Eric).

Got there in the end and ran is round the block.  Gear change feels amazing, steering is good.  Need to move the steering UJ as the steering wheel is at 2pm.  Maybe next week I will have a look at lights as if I want to go to Mark's open day I might need them on the way back.

Maybe tomorrow night I will run it to the top of the North Downs and take a child to help record some run-by's so I hear what it sounds like :-)  Tidied my workshop and I have a clear bench for the first time since November...

[Ferrit]

Lots of little jobs...

tried to sort the steering wheel at 2 o'clock.  What a pig that is on a South Facing drive at 30d heat.  Its  better but now at 12.30.  Put the spring on the bonnet release leaver, fitted some black cap heads the the bonnet grill, finished the interior. 

Quick test drive with my Nephew who had never been in anything old before.  9pm cooling evening on local roads, he seemed quite blown away.  No petrol, PAS or oil leaks so far.  Monday I will go further.  Then next week its headlights time

[Ferrit]

Yesterday I braved the heat and had a play with cables...

Both clutch and throttle felt a bit heavy and not smooth.  So I disconnected and ran some cycling dry Teflon lube down them both, fitted a tube and gently blew.  Massive difference to both in use.

I also adjusted the throttle linkage so it pulled straight, because the cable was following going onto the second choke.  There is a local'ish company who make cables who have been recommended.  I will get some made as I cant source either, maybe at the end of the summer?

Went for a drive last night into the hills and think its running too lean looking at the plugs so having a play with this later.  I am not taking it back to the garage for various reasons.  I think one day I will go find a good company to dyno my car...


I think I need a gazebo up at the drive it south facing.  My rubber gloves were dripping yesterday and I was in the shade...


Exhaust wrap and new/recon headlight bowls to be fitted next....

[SanRemo78]

I reckon that throttle cable is from a LHD car. It should be much much shorter, almost straight! I've got a new one for my build but I haven't tried fitting it yet as the engine isn't in yet... It may not work with the twin 40's!

Guy

[Ferrit]

these people make cables, and I have been informed from a mate (who used to build Bond cars etc) they are really good

https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-and-components.html

[Ferrit]

I reckon that throttle cable is from a LHD car. It should be much much shorter, almost straight! I've got a new one for my build but I haven't tried fitting it yet as the engine isn't in yet... It may not work with the twin 40's!

Guy

Any chance you can measure the outer for me one day Guy?

Mark